From the edge of the Caspian

I spent a couple of days in Aktau and had a chance to dangle my fingers into the cool waters of the Caspian. The water was cold and salty and the view was unobstructed. It seems that beyond oil and gas industries, this city on the sea has been overlooked as a destination. With a bit more infrastructure, I could imagine a popular local resort destination... even Kazakhstan has a sea (then, how can it really claim to be a land-locked country?).

Day 100 and beyond

It is hard to believe that my stay here has already surpassed the 100 day mark! Thank you for sharing the beginning of this journey - it promises to be an adventurous and educational one. The project of chronicling my first 100 days in Central Asia was more challenging that I might have anticipated. Some days were filled with humdrum routine work and others were so chock-full of new experiences. The challenge to share and explore helped me to look at my world around me in a positive and inquisitive light. Thank you for being my audience -- and stay tuned for updates now and then. Here are some highlights from recent travels to Tajikistan.

A photo journey through Tajikistan and the few moments I snapped between meetings and other commitments:



 The road was bumpy at times. Check out this 11,000 ft mountain pass between Dushanbe and Khujand!

Day 99: Road Block Tajik Style

 You just never know what you might meet on the road. Today, our road was interrupted by wandering cows, donkeys, sheep, and even a truck hauling fluffy cotton (sorry for the quality of the picture -- I was a mad woman attempting to capture the life outside of my backseat car window).

Day 96: Cosmopolitan

You can feel the shift from north to south the moment you exit the airport in Almaty. As we drove into town, alongside colored trees and underneath the spectacular snow-capped mountains, I could not help but enjoy the setting on such a gorgeous autumn day. The day started early with rain and just-above-freezing temperatures in Astana and evolved into a pleasant day in Kazakhstan's former capital and cultural center.

I spent some time sitting over coffee at an outdoor cafe filled with people and traffic. The life bustling by on the sidewalk and in the cafe made this a perfect rest stop on a morning walk. I enjoyed this cafe so much that I admittedly returned later in the day with a friend to enjoy the atmosphere once again.

On my second trip, I discovered a delicious drink called "Americano Citron." 

Almaty wooed me with its pretty tree-lined streets and striking mountains, but it did not stop there. On the way to meet a fellow alum from Monterey Institute for dinner, I heard salsa music and snapped this photo of  dancers outside by a large fountain. 

It was a lovely, lovely day in the city.

Day 94: First Snow in Astana

We awoke to a pretty white cover on the trees, rooftops, and ground this morning -- the first snow of the season! Although this caused panic in the less hearty (read: those not raised on the tough plains of Wyoming), we took the light, melting snow as a sign that seasons are really changing. After all, with Halloween just around the corner, it has to get a bit chillier. My childhood memories all include having to wear my winter coat underneath my spiffy Halloween costume. I suppose that if Astana celebrated such a holiday, winter coat costumes would also be in order.

Perhaps the only downside of the cooler weather is that the heat for our building has not yet been switched on. We've pulled out the sweaters, wool socks, and winter-weight comforters for the weekend.

Let it snow! 

Day 89: Fashion Week in Kazakhstan

Here's a bit of bizarre fashion from Fashion Week in Almaty. For the record, I've never seen anything like this on the streets, although it does bode well for some good Halloween parties next month! I guess what it does say is that there is also a vibrant haute couture here in Kazakhstan. I'll leave the interpretation up to you, but I am particularly intrigued by the named "eco" theme in a place that is pretty far from the basic ability to recycle everyday items such as paper, cans, and bottles.

Day 88: Trading with Babushkas

This morning, we made a trek out to the market and were lucky enough to find a parking space directly across the street where all of the old ladies come into town to sell the produce from their gardens. I had a great time picking out beautiful apples, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, carrots, and garlic. Prized purchase of the day was a kilo of cranberries on which the seller gave me a discount and then threw in some lingon berries as a gift. (Those will be tasty come Thanksgiving, won't they?) My favorite transaction was with an old woman who was knitting slippers and selling plants potted in used mayonnaise buckets (yes, they love mayonnaise so much here that the do sell it in small buckets). She explained to me that aloe vera was healing and gave me a tour of her other delights (only 5-6 other pots sitting on the ground). I walked away with that plant and another for about six dollars and both of us felt like we made a good deal. The babushkas are my favorite part of the market.

Day 87: Quotidian

I remember hearing about how people a generation or two ago would keep diaries of the daily weather and routine. Nothing of note. Nothing extraordinary.

Friday, September 28

High: 63 Fahrenheit
Low: 37 Fahrenheit

Sunrise: 7:10 a.m.
Sunset: 6:58 p.m.

Rode bike to work: dry, comfortable, slightly windy.

Feels like fall - gorgeous color to trees (almost all are gold - haven't yet observed red or orange foliage)

Day 86: Dancing with Diplomats

The highlight of my day today was dance class. My husband is teaching a short ballroom course to folks at the Embassy in preparation for an upcoming event. We meet after work and dance in the atrium. I've taken classes before -- and Uli and I have done a lot of dancing -- but this lighthearted finish to the working day leaves me with a smile each and every week. Perhaps it is because the last two weeks have been spent dashing around working on last-minute projects as our fiscal year winds down. Perhaps it is just because it is a bit of good-spirited fun. Who know that dancing with diplomats would be the best part of some days?

Day 85: Restricted

I thought you might find it interesting to know that in light of recent events in Libya, Egypt, and elsewhere, local authorities have decided to restrict free use of some websites like YouTube and blogs. It seems like my blogging platform is easy to access, perhaps because it is linked together with other Google-related accounts. WordPress and LiveJournal, for example, are inaccessible from inside Kazakhstan. We feel rather free here - and we have open conversations (although not of the overly political sort) with locals frequently. It's easy to forget until you run into an article highlighting the Freedom House's rating on Internet freedom or you try to access a site and Google reminds you that it is unavailable. From my non-techy vantage point, it makes me wonder how it is even possible to filter or stop free flow of information in the Internet age. There just seems to be so much out there -- and in so many places.

Day 84: Challenges in Corruptistan

I came across this article from Foreign Policy last week and found it insightful. There are, of course, many places in the world that face the challenges of transparent leadership and responsible government, but corruption and abuse of power seem to be widespread in the former Soviet states here in the 'stans.'

Take a read for yourself:


Corruptistan

Meet the oil barons, fashion divas, and ruling families of Central Asia.

Day 83: This is where we call home

Space age, grooviness? Yes. Here it all is in Astana.

Day 82: A Kazakh Wedding

We attended our first Kazakh wedding this weekend, and it was memorable. The ceremony we attended was for the bride's family. Family and friends attend to say good-bye to the bride. In nomadic days, this was a sad event as the family might not see their daughter again for many years.  In modern times, the event involves celebration but also a note of melancholy as the bride is given to the groom's family.

Some cultural notes:

• The invitation announced the reception at 5:00 p.m. but we came at 6:00 p.m. and only about 1/3 of the guests had arrived. Festivities seemed to get going around 7:00 p.m.
• There was a lot of food: 6-7 salads, Beshbarmak with horse meat, a main dish of chicken and rice, several different desserts.
• The event had an emcee in a sparkling vest that made announcements, sang, and organized games during the entire evening, even while we were eating.
• The entire evening was conducted in Kazakh, but side conversations among guests shouting over the music were in Russian. Some guests who volunteered to play games couldn't understand the rules in Kazakh well enough to play. However, most toasts and speeches were delivered in Kazakh. I didn't understand a word of the entire evening, unfortunately.
• Traditional dancers wore beautiful white costumes and looked a little bit like the Whos from How the Grinch Stole Christmas.
• Apparently these events are very scripted. The woman seated at my side told me that the emcee just changes the names and that this wedding was similar, if not the same, as her own wedding a month ago.
• Every single guest gave a small speech to the bride (even me, and I didn't even know the bride).
• All guests receive small gifts from the bride. We received hats and magnets at my table, but other tables received clothing and dishes.
• Modern music blares and even the older guests in traditional dress got up to shake their booty.
• The reception program of continuous dancing, singing, games, toasts lasts several hours. 
• Wedding season in Kazakhstan is in the fall and should happen before it gets too cold. We were told to expect to see many, many weddings on nearly every day of the week for the next couple of months.

Lots of food in multiple courses

All guests receive gifts -- Uli got a Kazakh hat

Waiters swirl around with platters of Beshbarmak before delivering each table a huge portion.

The bride enters with dancers in traditional dress on each side

Traditional dancing

The bride, groom, and attendants stand at the table of honor receiving toasts from every person invited to the event

Day 81: Sad Day

Today I received the news that my very best childhood friend suddenly died. I don't know how to mourn someone whose so tightly woven into my own life story, nearly a member of my own family. Kazakhstan feels pretty far away today, and I want to use this blog post to reach out to friends and family that I love dearly to tell you all that you matter. I think of you all often and am grateful you are part of my life. Whether we meet again soon or whether it takes a while longer for our paths to cross, know that you are precious and you are loved. Today my eyes are full of tears for a lost friend, and those eyes are complemented with a heart full of gratitude for friends I have known, moments we have shared, and memories that will last a lifetime.

Day 80: Beshbarmak

During dinner, I heard overheard this real-life conversation:
"Hey, you've got horse between your teeth."
"Oh, you're right. I guess I do."

A delicacy and centerpiece of Kazakh cuisine, the dish is made with wide noodles and horse meat. It might sound a little creepy to be chomping on Mr. Ed, but I have to say that I found the dish pretty tasty (even if the meat was a bit tough). Some of the ladies at the table next to us even bagged up extra pieces of meat to take home for later.

Day 79: Dispelling Myths

If I were in Washington, I would have loved to be at this exhibition.

Kazakh US exhibition banishes country's Borat image

Day 73-76: Calm in Kazakhstan

I've been reluctant to write on this topic because I have not yet fully gathered up my astonishment and sorrow and concern enough to pull together a coherent inkling. Compounding my own concern for friends - of many nationalities and religions - trying to live together "out there" in the world, I have also received short inquiries about our safety and state of affairs here. 

In short, from my vantage point, all is calm in Kazakhstan.

The destructive riots and killings this week really make me sad. They sadden me because of the deaths of good people who I did not know but could have, and these events sadden me because I know that far-flung colleagues now must do their work with the world at greater risk. The turbulence highlights how many divisions and deep misunderstandings there are between the world and America. As an educator, traveler, a believer, an idealist, and a patriot, I am confounded. And I am also motivated to continue conversation with the world, if it will have me.

From my reading and short-lived experience here, I cannot pretend to speak on the topic of faith in Kazakhstan or Central Asia. I can tell you that Kazakhstan is a multi-religious country that prides itself on diversity and tolerance. Religious affiliation and attendance is reported to be growing here in this predominantly Muslim country, and the Nur-Astana Mosque that recently opened on the Capital City Day is a magnificent structure that can hold 5,000-7,000 worshipers. Personally, this trend fits well with my experiences in other places behind the Iron Curtain where resurgences of all kinds of faith have been strong after imposed secularism and atheism--and understandably so. A Kazakh friend of ours here is a self-proclaimed traditional Muslim, something akin to the moderate faith described in Islam without a Veil. (Full disclosure: I haven't read this book yet; it's just on my reading list). I am not attempting to impose judgement in this post. In my life, I have met gentle people of many faiths who feel called to ancient and modern religious practices. In light of recent events, it may help you to know the landscape in this place we call home. 

I have been house-bound the last couple of days with the flu, and I've had a chance to catch up on my own intake of media. I'm confounded by the term repeatedly used: "The Muslim World." What does it mean? Where are we talking about? Or is it rather a statement about who? The term seems overused and rather ambiguous. With good conscious, is it okay to lump together millions of people living all over the world in a collective term? (A quick Google search led me to this NPR story from 2009: Is There a Muslim World?)

A divergent view on the issue of free speech came up earlier this week during my Russian lesson. My tutor brought in the translation of President Obama's words to the world about the events in Libya and Egypt. We read and discussed the article for a while and then she asked me why such a video had not been censured by the government. We batted around questions about those rights protected by my constitution of freedom of religion and freedom of speech. I like my tutor, and it was a good discussion that concluded without satisfaction on both ends. She couldn't believe that the government shouldn't have the right to censure such media. Although I agree with her disgust about the video and the actions supposedly catalyzed by it, I can't stop imagining the consequences of enabling a body to limit freedom of expression at will. It's a tough topic at the heart of our relationships with a world that also wonders why government cannot just stop eccentric and extremist videographers, preachers, politicians, and citizens from sharing opinions.

Some comments worth sharing:

• Poignant words from Secretary of State Hillary Clinton: Remarks on the Deaths of American Personnel in Benghazi, Libya
• From Prudence Bushnell, a former US Ambassador to Kenya and Guatemala, and her thoughts on diplomacy: Our Diplomats Deserve Better
• On fundamental rights of Freedom of Religion and Freedom of Speech from Slate: Internet Videos will Insult your Religion. Get Over It.
• A Map of Muslim Protests Around the World - Global - The Atlantic Wire

Day 75: A Knitted Slipper

House-bound today and thought I would prepare for the colder weather ahead (stormy and cool today with temperatures in the upper 50s).

Day 74: Battling for Good Health

We've been overcome with changing-of-the-seasons colds in the last week. As first one and then the second of us succumbed to virus, this article Myths of the Common Cold surfaced. We sniffled and had a good giggle over them, and perhaps you will too.

Not to disclose more than you may wish to know, but a former Russian instructor and friend added her two cents to my bought of stomach flu, wishing to dispel that as a myth as well, claiming that at home it was simply called "food poisoning" and she hadn't heard of this virus until coming to the U.S. :-)

A bit of Dr. Oetker pudding prepared by my sniffling spouse, and we feel a bit better already!

Day 73: Trilingual Kazakhstan

In 2013 Kazakh schoolchildren to learn English from Grade 1 - Education Minister

ASTANA. September 12. KAZINFORM  "In 2013 we will start to learn English from the first grade of secondary school, according to the approved standards of education," Kazakh  Minister of Education and Science Bakytzhan Zhumagulov said during the online conference "Modernization of the education system - the main vector of qualitative growth of human potential.""Multilinguism is based on the fact that we have three languages.  Kazakh is the state, Russian is the language of international communication, and English is  the international language. It is proved that children under seven absorb huge amount of information, can learn everything without wasting any effort. I say this in response to skeptics who believe that it will be difficult for children to absorb the upcoming training program," B. Zhumagulov said.
"Today, many kindergartens in Kazakhstan are English-speaking," the Minister added.
"Learning English is not in any way opposed to the study of the state language. The Kazakh language is the spirit of the nation, and this is indisputable," B. Zhumagulov concluded.

Day 72: The Sky Above

Day 71: To an International Tune

After work today, we headed to the British school to check out an International Choir hosted there. We found a big group of people ready to sing and were surprised at the diversity of the crowd attending. Spouses of oil company executives, school teachers, professors, diplomats, local English speakers. I tried my best to follow along and pronounce words like "dance" as British as possible to fit in. I'm not sure that I'm at home in the choir (I'd rather be tooting my horn!), but I would love to be a fan.

Day 70: Early Riser

This is not a country that gets up very early even on weekdays. Today, I awoke at 6:30 and was restless to get going. I dwaddled in my room and finally went down to the lobby of the hotel at 7:30 to see if I could get some breakfast and use the internet. The receptionist looked at me like I was crazy for being up so early and sternly told me that the restaurant would not open until 8:00 a.m. I pulled out my laptop and read the news until 8:00 a.m. No signs of movement or smells of cooking, so I decided to make the most of my morning, join the tweeting birds, and go for a walk through the streets of Taraz. I found delightful surprises - green, shady walkways, fountains, a crisp tingle to the air with mountains visible in the distance. And I had the feeling that I had this charming town all to myself in the early hours of the day. Peace.

Main street in Taraz

Looking towards the mountains (and sun)

Main square with fountains

Important-looking building with a park, benches, and fountains

A yurt in the yard of a city complex

Pretty flowers I stopped to say hello to along the way

I like the feeling this statue conveys - beyond words

From a bit later in the day, these are some students that I hung out with in the park making TARAZ with body letters.

Day 69: Apples are from Kazakhstan

Before coming to Kazakhstan, I read Apples are from Kazakhstan by Christopher Robbins. It was a gentle, positive read about my new home and I quite enjoyed it. The title itself is memorable and seems to ring true. Check out this story and pictures from the BBC.


View Larger Map

Today, we drove about four hours between Shymkent and Taraz (about 180 kilometers) over and through some mountainous terrain. We passed many stands of fresh fruit and apples, and I couldn't resist stopping to buy some from someone along the road.

For three dollars a bucket, we bought one of the red and one of the yellow. The seller assured me they were domestic apples, and that the presence of imperfections or worms only means that they are truly natural. The red apples were huge, crisp, and a little bit sour. The small yellow ones called лимонки (lemonki) were my favorites - sweet and fragrant. It made for a delicious journey between cities.

Day 68: Bows and Aprons

School girls in an Uzbek village called Sairam

Skipping away - School is finally finished at 7pm on Friday night in Sairam!

Day 66: Visit to Southern Kazakhstan

View Larger Map

I flew down to Shymkent today on a work trip and had the chance to breathe southern air -- and it smells sweet! Indeed, I feel as if I were in a somewhat different country that is almost the same. I guess after traveling 1,600 kilometers (1000 miles), you should feel as if you went someplace new.  

First impressions? The air seems more humid. More people speak Kazakh on the streets and hotel than in Astana (although they understand and speak Russian). The stereotypical chaotic driving seems to hold somewhat true for those bearing an "x" at the front of their license denoting residence in Shymkent. Structures seem older and less winterized. Time seems to be a more fluid concept with meetings taking place "when we arrive," no matter what the schedule indicates. It's nice down here - take a look for yourself!

Day 65: Too spicy

Tonight we hosted another dinner party for a mixed Kazakh-American crowd. In an attempt to be efficient with our time for a mid-week feast, we used some spaghetti sauce that we made over the weekend and just served up fresh noodles for the small group of friends.

Some cultural discoveries courtesy of our Kazakhstani guests:

• Don't get cold feet! Our lady guests arrived in stocking feet and her fiance immediately insisted that we find slippers for her so that she would not catch a cold. The hostess, yours truly, was wandering around the house in bare feet.
• Watch out for cold drinks! The same couple worried when we pulled juice out of the fridge. In a very manly way, the male guest snatched the cold glass away from the lady so that she would not suffer (and we pulled warm juice out of the pantry).
• Be wary of drafts! We seated our guests next to the window and as the evening wore on, the fresh air became worrisome.
• Stay away from spicy food! Our guests did not do well with the chili peppers in the sauce, becoming red in the face and resorting to many pieces of bread instead.
• Stick to "normal" tea! After a suite of other strange incidents in the evening, we served tea. Upon deciding which tea to serve (we suggested peppermint), our guest sighed and suggested just normal, black tea. No problem! 

Funny how many of these superstitions work across cultures -- and how some typical American behaviors become problematic. If our guests decide to return to our home (and we hope they do!), we'll know just how to make them more cozy.

Day 64: Cookies

Yup, they taste the same as in America. Nothing like a bit of chocolate chip happiness on a day off -- Labor Day today.

(As a side note, the cookie sheet was an uber fancy gift from my parents for Christmas and bakes like a charm.)

День 63: Посвящён моим одноклассникам

At the supermarket recently I remarked that I had never had a Kinder Surprise (chocolate eggs filled with tiny toys, banned in the US, apparently. To me, the thrill is akin to opening up a box of Cracker Jacks and looking for the fake tattoo or tiny toy inside. My husband bought me the chocolate treat, and I opened it up right away to find my miniature prize.

I smiled and immediately thought of my wonderful classmates from my Russian classes back in Virginia and our soulful rendition of the lion and turtle song from the Soviet cartoon.

As our classes together started nearly a year ago now, this post is dedicated to my classmates who endured many months of Russian with good humor, dedication, and friendship. I was so lucky to be surrounded with their wisdom as veterans in the same system and their great attitudes. I only wish that the Russian speaking world were a bit smaller so that we could meet up more easily to laugh and share.

Носорог, рог, рог идёт, 

Крокодил, дил, дил плывёт, 

Только я всё лежу 

И на солнышко гляжу.

Day 62: С Днём Знаний

Today was the ceremonial opening of schools in Kazakhstan.The symbolic day is a celebration of teachers, students, and education! The town was crawling with students and parents dressed in their best. In front of our building, there were kids with balloons. I think every academic year should open with such pomp and celebration. Learning is exciting and should be valued and celebrated!

С Днём Знаний! 

(Happy Day of Knowledge!)

Today Kazakhstan celebrates knowledge day - kazinform

Day 61: Observations from a High-rise

Tonight we had dinner with some neighbors who live in a tall building and have a great view out on the neighborhood. We live in a pretty central and somewhat upscale area of Astana. There are many large, fancy-looking individual family homes surrounding us. It's a good neighborhood with newer construction. Interesting to observe from a birds-eye view was the number of these large, fancy homes that still have outhouses. Given the choice of an outhouse or indoor plumbing in a place that gets -40 in the winter, I would have no hesitation to opt for the indoor toilet. Any insights on this one are appreciated...

Day 60: Kazakh Fitness is a Walk in the Park

Today was a mid-week national holiday, Constitution Day, and we enjoyed the feeling of playing hooky between work days. I had hoped for a large-scale military parade, but the march was called off this year to economize. In its absence, we filled our day with work at home, shopping, cooking, and cake baking, but we took some time out in the afternoon to join Kazakhs in one of their favorite pastimes, strolling in the park. We stumbled across newly installed fitness apparatus at the edge of the central park, a park that is teaming with kids, parents, and young people on the weekends and holidays. Passersby were there trying their hand at pumping iron mid-walk. The equipment is super sturdy and bolted into concrete. We decided to pause and get in a few reps before meandering home. Now, that's a fun public health initiative I can get into!