Saturday, September 15, 2012

Day 73-76: Calm in Kazakhstan

I've been reluctant to write on this topic because I have not yet fully gathered up my astonishment and sorrow and concern enough to pull together a coherent inkling. Compounding my own concern for friends - of many nationalities and religions - trying to live together "out there" in the world, I have also received short inquiries about our safety and state of affairs here. 

In short, from my vantage point, all is calm in Kazakhstan.

The destructive riots and killings this week really make me sad. They sadden me because of the deaths of good people who I did not know but could have, and these events sadden me because I know that far-flung colleagues now must do their work with the world at greater risk. The turbulence highlights how many divisions and deep misunderstandings there are between the world and America. As an educator, traveler, a believer, an idealist, and a patriot, I am confounded. And I am also motivated to continue conversation with the world, if it will have me.

From my reading and short-lived experience here, I cannot pretend to speak on the topic of faith in Kazakhstan or Central Asia. I can tell you that Kazakhstan is a multi-religious country that prides itself on diversity and tolerance. Religious affiliation and attendance is reported to be growing here in this predominantly Muslim country, and the Nur-Astana Mosque that recently opened on the Capital City Day is a magnificent structure that can hold 5,000-7,000 worshipers. Personally, this trend fits well with my experiences in other places behind the Iron Curtain where resurgences of all kinds of faith have been strong after imposed secularism and atheism--and understandably so. A Kazakh friend of ours here is a self-proclaimed traditional Muslim, something akin to the moderate faith described in Islam without a Veil. (Full disclosure: I haven't read this book yet; it's just on my reading list). I am not attempting to impose judgement in this post. In my life, I have met gentle people of many faiths who feel called to ancient and modern religious practices. In light of recent events, it may help you to know the landscape in this place we call home. 

I have been house-bound the last couple of days with the flu, and I've had a chance to catch up on my own intake of media. I'm confounded by the term repeatedly used: "The Muslim World." What does it mean? Where are we talking about? Or is it rather a statement about who? The term seems overused and rather ambiguous. With good conscious, is it okay to lump together millions of people living all over the world in a collective term? (A quick Google search led me to this NPR story from 2009: Is There a Muslim World?)

A divergent view on the issue of free speech came up earlier this week during my Russian lesson. My tutor brought in the translation of President Obama's words to the world about the events in Libya and Egypt. We read and discussed the article for a while and then she asked me why such a video had not been censured by the government. We batted around questions about those rights protected by my constitution of freedom of religion and freedom of speech. I like my tutor, and it was a good discussion that concluded without satisfaction on both ends. She couldn't believe that the government shouldn't have the right to censure such media. Although I agree with her disgust about the video and the actions supposedly catalyzed by it, I can't stop imagining the consequences of enabling a body to limit freedom of expression at will. It's a tough topic at the heart of our relationships with a world that also wonders why government cannot just stop eccentric and extremist videographers, preachers, politicians, and citizens from sharing opinions.

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