Sunday, September 23, 2012

Day 82: A Kazakh Wedding

We attended our first Kazakh wedding this weekend, and it was memorable. The ceremony we attended was for the bride's family. Family and friends attend to say good-bye to the bride. In nomadic days, this was a sad event as the family might not see their daughter again for many years.  In modern times, the event involves celebration but also a note of melancholy as the bride is given to the groom's family.

Some cultural notes:
  • The invitation announced the reception at 5:00 p.m. but we came at 6:00 p.m. and only about 1/3 of the guests had arrived. Festivities seemed to get going around 7:00 p.m.
  • There was a lot of food: 6-7 salads, Beshbarmak with horse meat, a main dish of chicken and rice, several different desserts.
  • The event had an emcee in a sparkling vest that made announcements, sang, and organized games during the entire evening, even while we were eating.
  • The entire evening was conducted in Kazakh, but side conversations among guests shouting over the music were in Russian. Some guests who volunteered to play games couldn't understand the rules in Kazakh well enough to play. However, most toasts and speeches were delivered in Kazakh. I didn't understand a word of the entire evening, unfortunately.
  • Traditional dancers wore beautiful white costumes and looked a little bit like the Whos from How the Grinch Stole Christmas.
  • Apparently these events are very scripted. The woman seated at my side told me that the emcee just changes the names and that this wedding was similar, if not the same, as her own wedding a month ago.
  • Every single guest gave a small speech to the bride (even me, and I didn't even know the bride).
  • All guests receive small gifts from the bride. We received hats and magnets at my table, but other tables received clothing and dishes.
  • Modern music blares and even the older guests in traditional dress got up to shake their booty.
  • The reception program of continuous dancing, singing, games, toasts lasts several hours. 
  • Wedding season in Kazakhstan is in the fall and should happen before it gets too cold. We were told to expect to see many, many weddings on nearly every day of the week for the next couple of months.
Lots of food in multiple courses

All guests receive gifts -- Uli got a Kazakh hat

Waiters swirl around with platters of Beshbarmak before delivering each table a huge portion.

The bride enters with dancers in traditional dress on each side

Traditional dancing

The bride, groom, and attendants stand at the table of honor receiving toasts from every person invited to the event

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