Perhaps you are wondering what winter is like here in the Southern Hemisphere. The answer is that it is lovely with hot, dry days and cool, temperate nights. Because Brasilia is at a higher altitude and part of the inland highlands, it does not have the sticky heat of the northeast or the humidity of the coasts. There are two seasons: dry and rainy. And we are at the beginning of dry season. I'm told that it won't rain a drop until sometime in October.
At the hottest part of the day, it is around 80F (27C) and at night it cools down to around 50F (10C). The sleeping is fine and mornings and evenings are cool enough to require a sweater or light jacket, at least for us.
This last Friday, we came home after midnight to find our doorman sitting with a beanie pulled down around his ears, gloves, and a heavy flannel shirt. He remarked how cold it was and we had a good laugh as he looked at us in shirtsleeves and sandals. Perhaps after a year or two here we will also bundle up for winter in Brazil!
Showing posts with label winter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label winter. Show all posts
Tuesday, July 10, 2018
Friday, January 18, 2013
Winter on the Steppe
We went for a stroll through the park today and learned why winter (even when the temperatures are subzero) is never dull on the steppe.
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| Frosty trees framed by clear skies chases the blues away |
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| Furry hats with earflappers keep you warm and stylish |
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| Late afternoon sunshine makes the Triumph building look even more stately |
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| Record amounts of snow this winter make the town look crisp and sparkling |
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| Ice sculptures along the promenade make winter special |
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| An ice slide onto the river provides fun for sledders and onlookers |
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| Whizz! This is a speedy slide |
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| Brave locals take a winter dip into the frozen river -- refreshing! |
Friday, January 04, 2013
Hardly a wink during this long winter's sleep
Howdy friends and family! My blogging activity has lulled to a slow, and you might have wondered if the bitter blasts of cold air on the Steppe had finally driven me to a hibernating slumber during spells of more than -40 this winter. Nope! Rather, I've been busily meeting new friends (and reuniting with some old ones) and trotting around the region. My Nomad Club Card is worn with use, my feet have covered a lot of territory, and I have been richly blessed. Here are some highlights just to catch you up.
In early November, I zoomed south after a trip to northeastern Kazakhstan to visit Turkmenistan. It's a 2,000 mile journey and the difference was palpable as I went from frigid Pavlodar, where it was -20 Centigrade to +24 Centigrade in Ashgabat all in one day!
View Larger Map
Turkmenistan was the biggest, cleanest marble city I have every seen. White buildings lining spotless boulevards lined by fountains and statues in every direction. It was spectacular, particularly as the city emerges from a desert. From the plane window I only saw desolate sands in every direction as far as you can see. There are camels being traded at the market and, I've since been told, cobras swishing around in those deserts (ai ai ai). My highlights included visiting markets and marveling at the beautiful handicrafts and carpets (see pictures, below) with new co-adventurers I met along the way.
Carpet and hat escapades brought me back home just in time for the Annual Marine Ball in Astana where I got to glide around the room with my husband and feel fancy for an evening.
View Larger Map
In December, I once again escaped the cold Astana temperatures and ventured south to Uzbekistan. I fell in love with cosmopolitan Tashkent and felt surrounded by history in rich tapestries, the old city of Khiva, and even in the dust of Urgench. The trip was spectacular and I felt at home (after all, there was still a hanger with my name on it in the coat closet at the Embassy!) in the green city. I cannot wait to go back next summer and hope to visit Bukhara and Samarkand while I am there.
One quirky detail about Uzbekistan: The national currency, Som, come only in denominations of 1,000 (2,000=$1 USD). Here's what it looks like to pay for dinner in a restaurant!
My final travels in Kazakhstan last year were up to the northwest in the city of Aktobe, where, among other things, I had the pleasure of viewing traditional dances, songs, and dombra performances by local school children.
View Larger Map
A whirlwind of new faces and new places, and I do have to admit that it did leave me dizzy and tired and very much in need of a long winter's nap.
In early November, I zoomed south after a trip to northeastern Kazakhstan to visit Turkmenistan. It's a 2,000 mile journey and the difference was palpable as I went from frigid Pavlodar, where it was -20 Centigrade to +24 Centigrade in Ashgabat all in one day!
View Larger Map
Turkmenistan was the biggest, cleanest marble city I have every seen. White buildings lining spotless boulevards lined by fountains and statues in every direction. It was spectacular, particularly as the city emerges from a desert. From the plane window I only saw desolate sands in every direction as far as you can see. There are camels being traded at the market and, I've since been told, cobras swishing around in those deserts (ai ai ai). My highlights included visiting markets and marveling at the beautiful handicrafts and carpets (see pictures, below) with new co-adventurers I met along the way.
Carpet and hat escapades brought me back home just in time for the Annual Marine Ball in Astana where I got to glide around the room with my husband and feel fancy for an evening.
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| From 2012-11 Marine Ball |
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| From 2012-11 Marine Ball |
View Larger Map
In December, I once again escaped the cold Astana temperatures and ventured south to Uzbekistan. I fell in love with cosmopolitan Tashkent and felt surrounded by history in rich tapestries, the old city of Khiva, and even in the dust of Urgench. The trip was spectacular and I felt at home (after all, there was still a hanger with my name on it in the coat closet at the Embassy!) in the green city. I cannot wait to go back next summer and hope to visit Bukhara and Samarkand while I am there.
One quirky detail about Uzbekistan: The national currency, Som, come only in denominations of 1,000 (2,000=$1 USD). Here's what it looks like to pay for dinner in a restaurant!
My final travels in Kazakhstan last year were up to the northwest in the city of Aktobe, where, among other things, I had the pleasure of viewing traditional dances, songs, and dombra performances by local school children.
View Larger Map
A whirlwind of new faces and new places, and I do have to admit that it did leave me dizzy and tired and very much in need of a long winter's nap.
Thursday, October 04, 2012
Day 94: First Snow in Astana
We awoke to a pretty white cover on the trees, rooftops, and ground this morning -- the first snow of the season! Although this caused panic in the less hearty (read: those not raised on the tough plains of Wyoming), we took the light, melting snow as a sign that seasons are really changing. After all, with Halloween just around the corner, it has to get a bit chillier. My childhood memories all include having to wear my winter coat underneath my spiffy Halloween costume. I suppose that if Astana celebrated such a holiday, winter coat costumes would also be in order.
Perhaps the only downside of the cooler weather is that the heat for our building has not yet been switched on. We've pulled out the sweaters, wool socks, and winter-weight comforters for the weekend.
Let it snow!
Thursday, April 07, 2011
April 7
Dirty snow. Gray sky.
Visible ground on the path to our woodshed...
A bulb peeking out!
Dirt! Bulbs! Green! Spring!
Hope is the thing with feathersThat perches in the soul,
And sings the tune--without the words,
And never stops at all,
And sweetest in the gale is heard;
And sore must be the storm
That could abash the little bird
That kept so many warm.
I've heard it in the chillest land,
And on the strangest sea;
Yet, never, in extremity,
It asked a crumb of me.
~ Emily Dickinson
Sunday, April 03, 2011
To be American in Kuressaare
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| From 2011-04-01 Kuressaare Jennifer |
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| From 2011-04-01 Kuressaare Jennifer |
Estonia is a small country. Sometimes I feel as if I live within its confines and am comfortable with the tension of small, and sometimes I feel as if Estonia is a much bigger place with separate countries embedded within its borders.
Last week I mentioned that I was in one of those far-flung countries within this country when I visited Narva. This week, I visited another corner of Estonia with its own distinct identity and flavor, the largest Estonian island of Saaremaa. The distance from Tartu is no small matter. In a country of 17,462 square miles, you wouldn't think that you could spend much time traveling. Alas! The excruciating bus ride from Tartu (central-south part of the country) to the capital of the island, Kuressaare, takes over six hours of bumpy travel, complete with stops to pick up more passengers and a ferry ride from the mainland. You feel the distance in a way that you would not feel such a distance when jumping into your car in the American West, for example. It's a journey. Above are pictures of the ferry ride to Saaremaa. After such a hard winter, there is still plenty of ice on the Baltic Sea, which, as a motion-sensitive passenger, I considered fortuitous as the ferry ride was much smoother than usual. We snapped these pictures at nearly 8:00 p.m. -- the light and ice were simply gorgeous. And, here's the small country part, when on the ferry we sat down next to the two representatives from the U.S. Embassy who would be joining us the next day in Kuressaare!
This was my second trip to Kuressaare to work with the American Corner in the public library. There are four American Corners in Estonia (Narva, Kuressaare, Viljandi, and Tartu), and they have a collection of books, periodicals, and media provided by the US Embassy to provide wider access to resources in places outside of the Capital. In addition, the American Corners host exhibitions and visitors who might meet with local groups or students on various topics. I was one such visitor.
I looked forward to visiting Kuressaare for a lot of reasons. It is a beautiful place, and, because it is a bit more remote than other places in Estonia, I have not had a chance to explore as much as I would like. The town also hosts some of the nicest spa hotels in Estonia, and I booked a room at the Georg Ots Spa, knowing that the restaurant had a really good chef (amazing chocolate cake) and affordable massages. The chance to get out of town and meet with a different audience was also appealing. My work in Kuressaare was twofold: primarily, I was to work together with a small group of local English teachers on the topic of teaching reading; secondarily, I offered to speak to the general public in conjunction with a video presentation about my experiences at U.S. National Parks.
When putting together my materials, I anticipated the visit and felt satisfied about preparing materials that would be useful, thought-provoking, and fun. I do have experience working in Estonia and am quite sensitive about issues such as professionalism and culture ethnocentrism, and I keep these in the back of my mind when stepping out into the world with the label of "American" slapped upon me. I am very aware that my very nationality can make it difficult for others to listen to me fairly. I am also aware of the powerful effects of worldwide mass media and pop culture and how those imbue impressions of me. As an long-term resident outside of the United States, I know I must be humble and sensitive. My ulterior motive as a de facto representative of my country is to give an alternative impression. I acknowledge that stereotypes are usually founded on some shared cultural traits, but I also cannot help but have a visceral reaction to the slovenly, uneducated, glib American that is expected.
As a teacher, I am always hungry for good conversation about how teaching/learning/language works. As a global citizen, I am always hungry for honest cultural exchange. In my preparation, I was eager to have conversations about culture, nature, teaching, and language.
My expectations for the visit were met. A nice group of people came and reacted pleasantly to a slide show and conversation about Yellowstone National Park. A couple of dedicated teachers showed up on a rather gray Friday afternoon to talk about teaching. I had a good look around town. I ate the chocolate cake I remembered at Georg Ots. I had a nice morning run around the fog-filled city complete with sounds of seagulls. I was even in the local paper. Saarte Hääl (link to the story in Estonian here).
On my way to the bus station yesterday afternoon, I stopped at a kiosk to see how the newspaper looked and picked up a couple of copies. Even with my weak Estonian skills, I understood most of the article and was pleased. The picture didn't make me look much weirder than I really am, and I thought it would be a nice souvenir from the visit.
Today, I received the online link from the reporter who interviewed me and had a chance to run the story through Google Translate for an even more discombobulated version of the visit. I noted that there were comments attached, and so I vainly ran these through Google Translate as well. The gist is something as follows: 1) Why is an American here to teach us when American schools are substandard with bullying. Estonia is better and smarter, and she should be here to learn from us; 2) American high school is like our 7th grade; 3) Wonderful picture--the body language says it all (I am pictured together with the Assistant Public Affairs Officer from the Embassy and we are both standing awkwardly with our hands held in front of us).
There is not a dearth of comments and clearly these folks have their own bones to pick. However, they did take the time to sign in and leave a comment. In my experience, the feelings shared are not far from the critical view I perceive in daily life. (On a related side note, just last week, a group of English teachers informed me about the inferiority of the American accent and the unfortunate state of Estonian English as a pidginized half-British half-American variety. Sheesh! What happened to accepting multiple varieties? global English? European English? Just plain comprehensibility?)
As a sensitive, well-intentioned American living here, I cannot help but feel disappointed at the consistent undercurrent. There is so much baggage that does not necessarily come with other national identities. The question is not only about my place as an English teaching professional (who happens to be American) but it is also a broader question about being an American woman (who happens to be abroad) struggling to find an agreeable sense of identity and place.
Last week I mentioned that I was in one of those far-flung countries within this country when I visited Narva. This week, I visited another corner of Estonia with its own distinct identity and flavor, the largest Estonian island of Saaremaa. The distance from Tartu is no small matter. In a country of 17,462 square miles, you wouldn't think that you could spend much time traveling. Alas! The excruciating bus ride from Tartu (central-south part of the country) to the capital of the island, Kuressaare, takes over six hours of bumpy travel, complete with stops to pick up more passengers and a ferry ride from the mainland. You feel the distance in a way that you would not feel such a distance when jumping into your car in the American West, for example. It's a journey. Above are pictures of the ferry ride to Saaremaa. After such a hard winter, there is still plenty of ice on the Baltic Sea, which, as a motion-sensitive passenger, I considered fortuitous as the ferry ride was much smoother than usual. We snapped these pictures at nearly 8:00 p.m. -- the light and ice were simply gorgeous. And, here's the small country part, when on the ferry we sat down next to the two representatives from the U.S. Embassy who would be joining us the next day in Kuressaare!
This was my second trip to Kuressaare to work with the American Corner in the public library. There are four American Corners in Estonia (Narva, Kuressaare, Viljandi, and Tartu), and they have a collection of books, periodicals, and media provided by the US Embassy to provide wider access to resources in places outside of the Capital. In addition, the American Corners host exhibitions and visitors who might meet with local groups or students on various topics. I was one such visitor.
I looked forward to visiting Kuressaare for a lot of reasons. It is a beautiful place, and, because it is a bit more remote than other places in Estonia, I have not had a chance to explore as much as I would like. The town also hosts some of the nicest spa hotels in Estonia, and I booked a room at the Georg Ots Spa, knowing that the restaurant had a really good chef (amazing chocolate cake) and affordable massages. The chance to get out of town and meet with a different audience was also appealing. My work in Kuressaare was twofold: primarily, I was to work together with a small group of local English teachers on the topic of teaching reading; secondarily, I offered to speak to the general public in conjunction with a video presentation about my experiences at U.S. National Parks.
When putting together my materials, I anticipated the visit and felt satisfied about preparing materials that would be useful, thought-provoking, and fun. I do have experience working in Estonia and am quite sensitive about issues such as professionalism and culture ethnocentrism, and I keep these in the back of my mind when stepping out into the world with the label of "American" slapped upon me. I am very aware that my very nationality can make it difficult for others to listen to me fairly. I am also aware of the powerful effects of worldwide mass media and pop culture and how those imbue impressions of me. As an long-term resident outside of the United States, I know I must be humble and sensitive. My ulterior motive as a de facto representative of my country is to give an alternative impression. I acknowledge that stereotypes are usually founded on some shared cultural traits, but I also cannot help but have a visceral reaction to the slovenly, uneducated, glib American that is expected.
As a teacher, I am always hungry for good conversation about how teaching/learning/language works. As a global citizen, I am always hungry for honest cultural exchange. In my preparation, I was eager to have conversations about culture, nature, teaching, and language.
My expectations for the visit were met. A nice group of people came and reacted pleasantly to a slide show and conversation about Yellowstone National Park. A couple of dedicated teachers showed up on a rather gray Friday afternoon to talk about teaching. I had a good look around town. I ate the chocolate cake I remembered at Georg Ots. I had a nice morning run around the fog-filled city complete with sounds of seagulls. I was even in the local paper. Saarte Hääl (link to the story in Estonian here).
On my way to the bus station yesterday afternoon, I stopped at a kiosk to see how the newspaper looked and picked up a couple of copies. Even with my weak Estonian skills, I understood most of the article and was pleased. The picture didn't make me look much weirder than I really am, and I thought it would be a nice souvenir from the visit.
Today, I received the online link from the reporter who interviewed me and had a chance to run the story through Google Translate for an even more discombobulated version of the visit. I noted that there were comments attached, and so I vainly ran these through Google Translate as well. The gist is something as follows: 1) Why is an American here to teach us when American schools are substandard with bullying. Estonia is better and smarter, and she should be here to learn from us; 2) American high school is like our 7th grade; 3) Wonderful picture--the body language says it all (I am pictured together with the Assistant Public Affairs Officer from the Embassy and we are both standing awkwardly with our hands held in front of us).
There is not a dearth of comments and clearly these folks have their own bones to pick. However, they did take the time to sign in and leave a comment. In my experience, the feelings shared are not far from the critical view I perceive in daily life. (On a related side note, just last week, a group of English teachers informed me about the inferiority of the American accent and the unfortunate state of Estonian English as a pidginized half-British half-American variety. Sheesh! What happened to accepting multiple varieties? global English? European English? Just plain comprehensibility?)
As a sensitive, well-intentioned American living here, I cannot help but feel disappointed at the consistent undercurrent. There is so much baggage that does not necessarily come with other national identities. The question is not only about my place as an English teaching professional (who happens to be American) but it is also a broader question about being an American woman (who happens to be abroad) struggling to find an agreeable sense of identity and place.
Wednesday, March 09, 2011
Sunshine never felt so sweet
My way to the University from home
As I slipped and sloshed on my way to work yesterday, I couldn't help but snap a few pictures up of what was a gorgeous, sunny day. Spring is apparently on its way to the Baltics, even if it creeps "üks mikromillimeeter päevas..." or one micro-millimeter per day, as a friend of mine says.
There was a lot of evidence today: during my run today I heard birds chirping and saw several people sitting outside just soaking up the sun in the pose of sunflower -- eyes closed, face oriented directly at the sun to capture those sweet rays of spring time. A student in my morning class was wearing sneakers (no boots!) without socks. It's very possible that he may not have had clean socks to wear; however, I also felt on the verge of breaking out sandals at the balmy 37 degree weather. As we come nearer to the spring solstice, the days are elongated. Sunshine streams in my bedroom window before 7:00 a.m., and I noticed on my way home that it was still light after 6:00 p.m.
Today, my down coat was a bit too heavy, and, as I was walking to meet a friend for coffee in the afternoon, I had the fleeting notion that it would be heavenly to sit at an outdoor cafe! This is what above-freezing temperature on a sunny day does to you when winter has gone on just a little too long.
Here are some pictures for illustration and your entertainment. I am not exactly sure when all of this is going to melt. I can hardly wait for those tulip and daffodil bulbs I planted last fall to peak their pretty sprouts out of the ground. However, I am grateful for a nice day, melting snow, and a glimmer of hope that spring has decided to make its way here, micro-millimeter by micro-millimeter.
These are ruts in the ice (the road is somewhere far, far underneath these layers)
Notice the high snow barriers on the side of the streets made of solidly packed snow and ice.
The treacherous icy path down Lossi Street in the center of town
Consider yourself lucky if you manage to slide down without a twist or fall. I can't wait until we have traction again!
Someone started to pick away at the ice near the bottom of the hill -- uff! Look at the ice layer.
Thursday, March 03, 2011
Where ya been?
Well... the answer is convoluted as always, but here is the short of it.
In Florida (sounds like a tropical paradise, and it certainly is a tropical paradise in comparison to the Baltics in the winter) for an all-American family vacation with the Big Mouse and a stylin' side trip to South Beach and even out to Key West. We can now say we've been to the very Westernmost tip of the nation.
In Germany for New Year's with family and some gourmet dining (see previous post for a full run-down and degustation).
In Missoula, Montana for a month of work with some wonderful elementary school teachers visiting from the Korean National University of Education. Mountainous scenery, fulfilling work with some energetic colleagues and partners-in-crime, tasty microbreweries. Who could ask for a better winter respite only 600 miles from home in Wyoming?
In Estonia once again where the temperatures have not risen above freezing since my arrival 10 days ago. It's frigid, but there are piles of snow everywhere and the sun has not disappointed with ice crystals hanging in the air and sparkles glinting everywhere. (Pictures taken last weekend while skiing in Otepää, the winter capital of Estonia.
In Florida (sounds like a tropical paradise, and it certainly is a tropical paradise in comparison to the Baltics in the winter) for an all-American family vacation with the Big Mouse and a stylin' side trip to South Beach and even out to Key West. We can now say we've been to the very Westernmost tip of the nation.
In Germany for New Year's with family and some gourmet dining (see previous post for a full run-down and degustation).
In Missoula, Montana for a month of work with some wonderful elementary school teachers visiting from the Korean National University of Education. Mountainous scenery, fulfilling work with some energetic colleagues and partners-in-crime, tasty microbreweries. Who could ask for a better winter respite only 600 miles from home in Wyoming?
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| From Winter Missoula Jan 2011 |
In Estonia once again where the temperatures have not risen above freezing since my arrival 10 days ago. It's frigid, but there are piles of snow everywhere and the sun has not disappointed with ice crystals hanging in the air and sparkles glinting everywhere. (Pictures taken last weekend while skiing in Otepää, the winter capital of Estonia.
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| From Winter Estonia February 2011 |
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| From Winter Estonia February 2011 |
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| From Winter Estonia February 2011 |
Wednesday, December 08, 2010
Tartu Happenings
Once back in Tartu, we celebrated the University of Tartu's Anniversary with a wintry torchlit procession and plenty of dancing at the annual ball.
The only unclear part (for me) is how many years to celebrate. The university webpage celebrates 91 years as an Estonian language institution, but I distinctly remember celebrating 375 years when I was here in 2007. One thing I am sure of, however, is that this ball is definitely the anniversary of Uli & Jenn. I guess it is best to just say, Happy Anniversary!
UT Ball 2010
UT Ball 2007
UT Ball 2006
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| From UT Anniversary December 2010 |
The only unclear part (for me) is how many years to celebrate. The university webpage celebrates 91 years as an Estonian language institution, but I distinctly remember celebrating 375 years when I was here in 2007. One thing I am sure of, however, is that this ball is definitely the anniversary of Uli & Jenn. I guess it is best to just say, Happy Anniversary!
UT Ball 2010
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| From UT Anniversary December 2010 |
UT Ball 2007
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| From UT Ball Dec 07 |
UT Ball 2006
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| From DrUlno |
Thursday, January 25, 2007
Snowstruck
Come visit me in my Tartu digs! I couldn't resist snapping a few bajillion pictures to capture the snow-striking walk through town and to the university the other day. Join me on my beautiful and sparkling trek to the office by clicking on the narrated Picasa picture album below.
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Screeching around our home, the cicadas that come with the onset of the rainy season sound like an army of broken hard drives droning in fr...
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There is not a better word to describe these last months than this simple and entertaining toy. It is as if I have been a yo yo controlled b... -
There is nothing that says vacation like a daily dose of frozen dairy, especially yummy kinds you do not find at home. Passing by this...