Some insights from/about Central Asia

Howdy, y'all

In my absence, I've been busy cruising around the region (or racing as fast as one might be able in this vast space). I've stumbled upon some recent news worth a gander:

Atlantic Monthly article "The City of White Marble" on Ashgabat, Turkmenistan with great photography of the city. I visit this city for work frequently and continue to marvel at its grandeur.

A cynical look (with great photos) at Murghab, Tajikistan "In the Middle of Somewhere" by Joshua Kucera. The place is completely on top of the world but not quite as bleak as the author conveys. I was completely charmed by the people living here.

Business Insider recently posted a listing of "The 20 Worst Airlines in the World." Central Asia has made room for itself on this list, multiple times.

With humor and straight from the heart of Central Asia, I am humbly yours! Stay tuned for more updates from my recent trip to Uzbekistan!

It's Spring in Turkmenistan

As I log in today, I realize that I've been remiss about posting this winter. There have been travels and adventures in the region, and I haven't had enough moments to digest the experiences and share properly. I was reminded on a recent trip to Ashgabat that spring is the perfect time for renewal and refreshment. Here are some pictures of what has to be one of the world's most fantastic cities. Marble and gold-inlaid opulent architecture, majestic fountains and sculptures, spic-and-span wide avenues are ubiquitous in this oil-rich capital. However, none of it compares to the beauty of nature in springtime. The best part of my visit was a Sunday afternoon trip to President Turkmenbashi's presidential health walk outside of the city. Poppies, lupine, sage, forget-me-nots, and delicate white flowers littered the sides of hills where families and teens wandered, gathering bouquets to take home. Simply the loveliest breath of fresh air.

Take a look for yourself.  Breathe deep. Spring will come soon, even to the tundra of Astana and plains of Gillette!

View of "40 legs" from the hotel -- a statue of 10 horses (scroll down for another view)

Indoor Ferris Wheel outside of the city. Note the trees, a few of thousands planted surrounding the city by the President to try and change the desert climate of Ashgabat.

Impressive! Too bad it was closed on our visit due to rain...

The Presidential Health Walk - kilometers of cemented stairs on the hillsides outside of Ashgabat

Cool marble fountain in which the water makes the ball spin (tough to capture on camera)

The health walk

Poppies!

with "Toni the ELF"

Pretty sure that this was what made my legs sore the next day

Back to 40 legs

Tribute to the President

Outside of Turkmen Disneyland

"Typical" new Ashgabat avenue lined with marble buildings

View of the city from the Oil and Gas Institute building

Hardly a wink during this long winter's sleep

Howdy friends and family! My blogging activity has lulled to a slow, and you might have wondered if the bitter blasts of cold air on the Steppe had finally driven me to a hibernating slumber during spells of more than -40 this winter. Nope! Rather, I've been busily meeting new friends (and reuniting with some old ones) and trotting around the region. My Nomad Club Card is worn with use, my feet have covered a lot of territory, and I have been richly blessed. Here are some highlights just to catch you up.

In early November, I zoomed south after a trip to northeastern Kazakhstan to visit Turkmenistan. It's a 2,000 mile journey and the difference was palpable as I went from frigid Pavlodar, where it was -20 Centigrade to +24 Centigrade in Ashgabat all in one day!


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Turkmenistan was the biggest, cleanest marble city I have every seen. White buildings lining spotless boulevards lined by fountains and statues in every direction. It was spectacular, particularly as the city emerges from a desert. From the plane window I only saw desolate sands in every direction as far as you can see. There are camels being traded at the market and, I've since been told, cobras swishing around in those deserts (ai ai ai). My highlights included visiting markets and marveling at the beautiful handicrafts and carpets (see pictures, below) with new co-adventurers I met along the way.

Carpet and hat escapades brought me back home just in time for the Annual Marine Ball in Astana where I got to glide around the room with my husband and feel fancy for an evening.

From 2012-11 Marine Ball

From 2012-11 Marine Ball

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In December, I once again escaped the cold Astana temperatures and ventured south to Uzbekistan. I fell in love with cosmopolitan Tashkent and felt surrounded by history in rich tapestries, the old city of Khiva, and even in the dust of Urgench. The trip was spectacular and I felt at home (after all, there was still a hanger with my name on it in the coat closet at the Embassy!) in the green city. I cannot wait to go back next summer and hope to visit Bukhara and Samarkand while I am there.

One quirky detail about Uzbekistan: The national currency, Som, come only in denominations of 1,000 (2,000=$1 USD). Here's what it looks like to pay for dinner in a restaurant!

My final travels in Kazakhstan last year were up to the northwest in the city of Aktobe, where, among other things, I had the pleasure of viewing traditional dances, songs, and dombra performances by local school children.


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A whirlwind of new faces and new places, and I do have to admit that it did leave me dizzy and tired and very much in need of a long winter's nap.