Tuesday, October 23, 2007

The Odyssey Years

David Brooks redefines lifetime stages in a recent opinion piece in the New York Times, The Odyssey Years. He proposes that my parents and grandparents lived in eras when there were several clear-cut life stages -- childhood, adolescence, adulthood, and old age. In contrast, Brooks names two additional, more difficult to define contemporary life stages -- the odyssey years and active retirement. Our life flow with this new model looks instead like childhood-adolescence-odyssey-adulthood-active retirement-old age. His article focuses on the often misunderstood stage of wandering and discovery that is sandwiched between our adolescent and adult years.

As an itinerate wanderer, I perfectly understood what he has to say about this period of odyssey, and I also had an instant grasp on how misunderstood this concept is for those who grew up with a different definition of what it means to grow up. My relatives often ask me when I will really grow up -- by this, they generally mean when will you get married, have a real job, buy a house, have a dog, cat and two children, be in a respectable amount of American debt, and mow the grass and join the gym like everyone else (although not generally in that order)? My responses are formulated and well-practiced as I, like Homer's hero, have been on my dramatic life odyssey for the last ten years. The questions posed to me that inherently define adult as something to which I cannot currently conform feel loaded and unfair. Traveling and working have not been without their challenges and glories; the experience of fighting cyclops or encounters with Calypso and Lotus-eaters characterizes Odysseus as more of a man than an aimless tout who does not understand what else to do with his life.

My odyssey has no doubt been part of becoming an adult (and it continues to be so) with lots of steep learning curves and many new realizations about myself, others, and the world. My beliefs have been challenged and my identity has been remolded over and over again. While these processes can sometimes be completely disorienting, they do not leave me doubting whether or not I am an adult. Reforming and refining one's perspective through movement is a sign of life, not of immaturity. Never have I felt more grown-up than when confronted with the cross-cultural shock and necessary adaptations of living in Slovakia while in the Peace Corps or when standing in front of a group of small children bravely entering the mire of the English-speaking world. Sometimes I am afraid and uncertain, to be sure, but, despite my marital status and lack of worldly possessions, I do not question the legitimacy of my life stage or current actions.

I guess I am writing this post because sometimes I tire of the questions and I am not always sure that the conversation partner understands who I am or what I am doing. It is discouraging and sometimes insulting to be treated as if your life choices are a childish phase gone wrong for too long. The Washington Post article was uplifting as a recognition of the validity of such misunderstanding about the odyssey years. I don't know if the new life cycle that Brooks describes demands that the adulthood stage following the odyssey still entails getting married, having a real job, buying a house, having a dog, cat and two children, acquiring a respectable amount of American debt, and mowing the grass and joining the gym like everyone else.

I suspect that it doesn't matter. Some of us were just meant to wander until we find our way to Ithaca. Adult or not, I am happy to delight in the gifts of the journey!

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Let my garden grow

This weekend I set out to test my green thumb with a true hallmark of settling into a new place: I planted a garden. Dirt under my fingernails, sweat on my brow, I seeded some herbs that aren't widely available in Estonia. Rows of rosemary, red basil, thyme, marjoram, and mint neatly await sunshine and water. As for me, I will carefully tend them with conversation and a song or two while watching for tiny green sprouts... Updates forthcoming!


Tuesday, October 09, 2007

Kuningas Gustavi Gala

My last post mentioned that the wind orchestra that I play in was playing in a concert for the 375th University of Tartu Anniversary. The gala concert was also recorded and televised, so now post-concert I am basically a huge star here in Estonia... ha!

Take a look for yourself at the video feed: KUNINGAS GUSTAVI GALA. You can watch the whole concert (about 2 hours in length), but if you just want to skip to the really good part, you can fast-forward to catch Popsid at the 1:07:00 mark. We play two songs at that point and one more big hit near the end of the video feed (1:27:00). Enjoy!

Friday, October 05, 2007

Happy Birthday!



Today marks the celebration of the University of Tartu's 375th birthday. There are gala concerts, new statues, and a slew of invited dignitaries. The entire town has had a makeover -- streets are fixed, building have new paint, and there are fresh flowers planted everywhere, not to mention all of the decorative flags and banners sprinkled throughout town. As an outsider, it is nice to be a witness to all of the fanfare and a participant in the party.



Today, I waved at the Queen of Sweden as she made her way into the Main Hall of the University (see photo, above). I am not sure if she saw me in the crowd, but she did smile and return a wave or two in our direction.

This evening, I will play together with Popsid in the gala concert for the anniversary. The entire concert is a huge affair with choirs, folk ensembles, and folk dancing -- a true show in honor of the long history of the university. I look forward to taking part!

Monday, October 01, 2007

Violated

This has been an especially exciting month of my life in Tartu. Here's the short version:

I couldn't move into my apartment on time because my landlords decided to stay in the space while they did their renovations.

Fine. I stayed at a hotel for a few days, worked like mad to prepare for my work in Austria for the beginning of the month.

Okay. I return from my work. The first night in my new home I was robbed. In the night. While sleeping. Nobody hurt. Electronics and cash and sense of safety went missing.

Good. Police fill out report, take finger prints. Very professional. Must be a fluke. Can regain a semi-coherent sense of safety somehow.

Let's settle in. The apartment was not as furnished as promised. I bought some extra linens and tableware. Built some furniture. Cleanse the energy and air of the place. Settle in.

Manageable. I leave for work-related conference for a week.

Upon return, receive phone call and rush home. Place was broken into. Brutal force used to smash windows. Alarm sounded for 12 hours and no one "noticed" or called. Nothing taken but feel completely violated. More police reports. More fingerprints.

Stay with a friend. Must move. Rental market very tight in Tartu after opening of school year. Overpriced. Tough negotiations. Concerned about location, price, security, and quick availability. Worried about being an "outsider" in the process.

Manage to find a place. New air. New location. New move. Uff!

The police find the intruders. They visit our old home to tell their story. Landlord reports that the criminals are mere children who laugh hysterically while indicating what happened.

Shaken. Tired. (Exhausted.) Emotional. Safer (really!). What a feeling. Nothing of mine is missing... or is it?

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Litmus Test

Every time I visit a new location, I apply a litmus test. Not one for chemical acidity, to be sure, but the could-I-live-here litmus test, applying a rigorous number of criteria to ascertain whether or not I could dream of returning on a more permanent basis.

This week I find myself in Bolzano, or Bozen in German, Italy for a conference on Bi- and Multi-Lingual Universities. It is a truly bilingual city nestled in the mountains of Northern Italy.



Here are some of the ways in which it passes (surpasses!) the grade:

1. It is multilingual: German and Italian are spoken here interchangeably. Although I do not speak either German or Italian, I would be interested in learning both of them. They are widely spoken, literary and musical languages. Hallo! Ciao!

2. There are mountains... and water: The town is surrounded by breathtaking mountainous landscape that is easily accessible (I walked there today) and a river runs straight through the town.



3. It is a university town: There is learning taking place here and the university (Free University of Bozen-Bolzano) is tri-lingual with German, Italian, and English as languages as instruction. There is also hope of employment!

4. Great food: The best of two countries -- pasta, stinky cheeses, wine, olive oil, strudel, espresso, gelatto. There is also a beautiful fruit, vegetable, spice, and cheese market in the middle of town. Need I say more?



5. A lively population: A town of only 100,000, similar to the Estonian town of Tartu where I currently live, Bolzano is bustling with energy and people in the streets. Refreshing!

6. Long lunches (and siesta?): Everything closes for 1-2 hours for lunch. You gotta love people that know how to take a minute or two off to appreciate the best things in life.



7. Recreation: With the mountains, there is year-round activity. Skiing, hiking, rafting... Ah! I love the outdoors! (There's even a dance school in the center for some indoor activity)



8. Climate: Today was a gorgeous, sunny, warm day (around 75 Fahrenheit). There are four seasons, but they don't seem to be overly extreme. An adequate amount of year-round sunlight/darkness is also attractive.

9. It's old: There is history... Europe's oldest mummified human resides here. Pretty old :)



10. General charm: The town is quaint. Great skylines, nice architecture (I lvoe the shutters), and friendly people. I am traveling with a colleague and her one-year-old baby, who receives coos and attention from every age and gender on the streets.

I may sound enamored. I may be. More thoughts to come... or maybe I'll begin to seek opportunities to stay longer!

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

V srdce, ja mam staru turu


It was a bit like coming home to my second family. At the end of my stay in Austria, I was able to squeeze in an overnighter in the village where I did my Peace Corps service nearly 8 years ago. Stara Tura is a small town situated in the Carpathians in the western part of Slovakia, and there live some people that remain incredibly precious and loved by me.


View Larger Map

My trip was not premeditated or well-planned, but I arrived to see the colleagues and friends that I could manage to find. Waiting for me at the train station was the best friend that I had during my two and a half year stay in Stara Tura. A smiling face and warm heart, she graciously invited me back into her home and life. Preoccupied during the train ride from Vienna about my Slovak language skills, I found it simple to ease back into our bantering routine of walks, coffee, and meals. I was welcomed so completely at her home, disturbing any routine she might have had. I felt like a long-lost daughter as we began to catch up on what had been missed in our letters over the last four years. She cooked for me and fussed over the cold I was beginning to catch. A true friend, she listened as well as talked as we celebrated and sympathized over new developments in our lives. Not to continue sounding cliché, but it was timeless, as I guess any good friendship should be.

From Slovakia 07


During my visit, I realized how beautiful the town is and the nice collective that I had at the schools where I worked while I was there. Remembered as I reunited with a couple of close colleagues, we reminisced together (amazingly enough, po slovensky!). I was reminded that for those of us that wander, we leave second and third and fourth homes scattered here and there. Somehow, for me, I am always surprised and grateful at the blessing it is to keep coming to those homes. I guess that we leave a bit of ourselves behind and, at the same time, a bit of each place and people is planted within us. I still marvel when I rediscover the places where my heart belongs.




Sunday, September 09, 2007

Mozart is a great composer, sir!

A very true statement. I have spent the last couple of weeks working in Austria with different groups of teachers, and on the weekend that broke up the seminars, I was able to do a bit of wandering in Vienna. My Sunday morning was completely remarkable.

I made my way in the morning down to the First District (or historical center) of Vienna to enjoy the wonders the city has to offer. Weaving between beautiful architecture and famous historical places, I managed to arrive at St. Augustin’s cathedral in time for Sunday mass. Admittedly, it was my intended destination as it hosts well-reputed musicians to perform special music during the offertory and postlude. I was not disappointed. Although crammed into the pews of the small and beautiful church with other tourists and church-goers, I enjoyed some Mozart and Buxtehude. Gorgeous sounds of choir, organ, and orchestration! I was truly convinced, as the young and defiant soldier Andrew in the movie The Barber of Siberia that Mozart is a great composer.

Afterwards, I continued to enjoy my morning at a historic Viennese café, Café Central. Amidst beautiful pastries and steaming cups of hot coffee, I breakfasted and read my paper, taking in the other customers and soaking up the moment.

Somehow, in this half day, I felt more rejuvenated than I sometimes do after a week of vacation. Breaking my routines and taking time to appreciate art and life slowly reminded me of the importance of taking time out. I aim to do it a bit more often, whether set to Mozart and Sacher Torte or not, once I return to Estonia.



Thursday, August 16, 2007

Through the looking glass

Reflections are probably only as precise as the instrument used to cast the image, I suppose. What you see mirrored in a lake is different than in a piece of tinfoil, a storefront window, or above the bathroom sink. Depending on how, when, and where you see a reflection, you may get a completely different idea of the original or actual composition. I too am a type of reflector, emitting a sort of reflection of the attitudes, diversity, interests, education, and ideas of my own home place. Depending on the lighting and materials surrounding me, I portray "my people" (a group whose composition or location may change at my own whim or for my own purposes) in a completely different shades.

From 2007-08-13 to...

I mention the metaphor because I can suddenly see my country through a new looking glass. Often while I am abroad for long stretches of time, I become incensed when others try to capsulize Americans into a clearcut list of stereotypes: Americans are stupid, fat, loud, casual, materialistic, insincere, patriotic, smiley, etc. I also add to these kinds of generalizations in an attempt to understand myself and where I come from in contrast to a different place or people. I have found myself uttering things such as "In the U.S., we do it this way..." or "Americans are usually like this..." Thwarting my own attempts to dispel such stereotypes, I contribute to an idea that you can capture a nation's entire reflection in a sound bite or mere reflection.

From 2007-08-08 Bi...

However, we all know that what we see in the mirror is just a bit different than how others perceive us. There is a likeness, but the image does not capture a whole person. Distortions increase proportionately when we try to take a look at ourselves in the back of a spoon or in a rear-view mirror while driving. A reflection helps us understand in someway the person others see us as, but it doesn't begin to tell of three dimensional shapes, lines, wrinkles, sparkles in eyes, or wide-mouthed laughter. In order to see those rich features, like Alice, we must step through the looking glass to encounter the person or place in its entirety.

From 2007-08-12 Bo...

My one-dimensional reflection of the United States while abroad has been warmed and enhanced during my visit home this summer. I have traveled in company. Hosting guests in Wyoming, South Dakota, and D.C. while home has helped me appreciate and understand those places better. Rose-colored glasses removed, I feel as if my reflections have improved with sharing. Through the eyes of visitors and hosts, I'm reminded of how askew my reflections sometimes become when I am not so close to home. I'm reminded that it is impossible to single-handedly capture the United States - or any place on this earth - with only your own eyes and devices.

From 2007-08-05 St...

Here are some of the things that have renewed and clarified the way I look at places I've known and visited for a long time:
  • Wyoming is indeed rural and quite brown
  • My family is funny, easy-going, and very cool
  • Americans we have encountered along the way are über friendly and talkative
  • I have a cool job as an ELF
  • Air-conditioning is over-used and overly cool and I don't like it
  • Food here is HUGE but can also be scrumptious
  • The Big Horns are quiet and gorgeous
  • Motorcycles (although very cool) are awfully loud sometimes
  • The sky in Wyoming is enormous and very blue
  • Summers are hot
  • Washington, D.C. has a lot to offer
  • Baseball is fun -- Go, Bowie Baysocks!
  • Good friends are good friends no matter where or how often you meet
  • I like living in Estonia
  • Eavesdropping (because I can!) assures me that Americans are just like people everywhere else mostly (phew!)
  • English is an interesting language that I fail to appreciate at times; I am still learning it and appreciative of its innovations and deviations (my family and friends are full of idioms and expressions new to me)
  • Life here really requires a lot of driving, and I don't really like driving 15 minutes to the grocery so much anymore
  • Basically, life here isn't so much different, depending on where you look, than anywhere else

From 2007-08-08 Bi...

Saturday, August 04, 2007

Vroom vroom

I know that I professed a love of my bicycle, but nothing beats riding my motorcycle through the foothills to see Devil's Tower.

What is that noise encircling our home?

Screeching around our home, the cicadas that come with the onset of the rainy season sound like an army of broken hard drives droning in fr...