Saturday, September 25, 2010

Palamuse Pops

I know you are thinking, "Where/What/Why is Palamuse and how can it possible pop?"

Where is it? Why, it's just about half an hour northeast of Tartu.


View Larger Map

What is there? Why, it's just a cute little town to visit with some historical places related to a famous Estonian author (Oscar Luts, author of Kevade, etc.) and a famous pharmacy where you can buy a mysterious elixir to cure any ailment (this one is more than a bit mysterious to me as it was explained in Estonian, but I suspect it is something like schnapps).



Why Palamuse on a September Saturday? Why, there is an enormous fair, the XIII SUUR PAUNVERE VÄLJANÄITUS JA LAAT with some of the following highlights:

Gigantic Pumpkins



Folk Dancing



Smoked Fish in Every Shape, Size, and Color



Portable Sauna



Mushroom Carvings (Maybe some inspiration for my favorite wood carver out there?)



Rustic Hot Tubs



Old Time Band Apelsin
Click the link to hear a music sample -- they are really pretty good!



Lots of Handicrafts and Shoppers
(I modestly walked away with some beautiful orange wool for knitting, sea buckthorn honey, and handmade goat's milk soaps. I resisted the temptation to buy a beautiful jacket, mittens, jewelry, handmade baskets, and so many more treasures!)



How does it Pop? Why, with Popsid, of course!



Upon my return to Tartu, I picked up with the crazy but quite talented group with whom I played while I was here before. It was fun to reappear at a rehearsal a few weeks ago and to be readopted (without much fuss or fanfare) to the group. They are funny/weird/playful and also serious about their music. It reminds me a lot of pep bands in high school and college, but with a steeper learning curve. They keep hundreds of songs in their repertoire so that almost every concert involves quite a bit of sight reading and they operate in Estonian, this ever-elusive language that I continue to attempt to learn and understand better. I'm happy they've accepted my pitiful language competency and mediocre horn talents -- it is always fun to be in their midst.



Curious about the sexy uniform? Yes, we wear green overalls for concerts :-)

Monday, September 13, 2010

Knitting and yardwork

I mentioned in a previous post that I had taken up knitting. To be honest, I was not very sure I would take to it well. I don't have a very domestic background and have failed with cross stitching and sewing projects in the past. However, I must say that knitting has a rather addictive quality to it. I find that I really enjoy making something, and keeping my hands busy while listening to podcasts of NPR is a very relaxing way to spend an evening. There is a very meditative quality to repeating stitches and working methodically through a pattern. I just may have found my long-lost home economics niche!

That said, here are the fruits of my labors -- I finished my first project and have some handsome slippers made of six square pieces later sewn together. My feet were convinced -- I couldn't take them off or keep staring at my handicraft all evening. One slipper is quite a bit larger than the other, but that just makes it uniquely mine!







The friend I met in Finland last weekend also brought along some inspiration from her much-longer honed knitting hands in the shape of some awesome legwarmers. I also put these on and wore them for the duration of my stay in Helsinki. Not only are they hip but they are also quite practical in a climate that can be rather brisk, even in these early days of autumn! To top it off, the yarn is from a project called Peace Fleece, blending wools from the US, Russia, and Romania. And the color of my brilliant legwarmers? Why, Baltic Blue, of course.



I will be starting another project soon -- more slippers -- and this time in a mixed yarn so that I can learn a few more tricks before I am ready to move onto other things!

My last project of the week was my yard. I just got done mowing, and I love having a bit of a yard. Although it is quite small by American standards, it gives us some green space and is a nice buffer between the back of our apartment and other shared spaces for storage. One of the tasks we have as renters is to cut the grass when it needs it. No problem. I have some serious qualifications for mowing yards (after all, I did spend a summer mowing the Hardee's grass in the middle of my hometown, amongst other projects), and I really don't mind it a bit as long as there are no snakes that might slither across the grass while I am at it. The difference here is our method of cutting the grass. We have a small bladed mower (see picture) that works just great but requires a bit of sweat to really get at the project. I rather enjoy it, but I must admit that the yard looks a lot bigger when you are making swaths without a motor. I can imagine that people back at home really would maintain smaller yards if they all maintained it this way! I think it looks great -- and I feel like I got the workout I needed for the day.

Twenty-four hours in Helsinki

Just a zippy boat ride away. I spent Friday-Saturday bumming around the hip and beautiful Finnish capital. Markets, sharp design, good food, stylish company... take a look for yourself!

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Mushroom Hunter

Last week a friend called to see if I might be interested in wandering in the forest and foraging for mushrooms. Who me? Couldn't be happier than out in the fresh air walking around and discovering things I can later eat! Besides, I had been waiting for a guide (don't trust my abilities to stay away from poisonous fungus) so that I could finally participate in the great Estonian national pasttime! We headed south from Tartu and out to a forest path outside of Põlvamaa and we found kilos of treasure hiding under moss and beneath trees.




kukeseened (chanterelles)




puravikud (red-capped scaber stalks?)




riisikad (downy milk caps?)




We also found some others that I don't remember well with my fledgling Estonian mushroom language, but they tasted yummy when cooked.




One special kind turned blue when you cut it and tasted amazing when prepared (fried in olive oil and butter, of course).



I can't wait to go again!

Friday, September 03, 2010

Baffled resident

This is me with a five-year Estonian residency and work permit -- good for the whole entire European Union -- and obtained expeditiously and with surprisingly little bureaucracy. Over all, it was the most pleasant immigration experience I have ever had. . . and I dare to say that my superlative is used with some means of comparison.


As a Peace Corps Volunteer in Slovakia, I received help from a counterpart and the papers from the Peace Corps office, but that could not save us from the military office visits to a town 12 kilometers away. The building I recall was somehow full of closed doors and a lot of waiting, even if I was being led around by my colleague Klaudia. We visited and filled out forms. Brought papers. Refilled out forms. Went to find more papers. And waited for closed doors to open. Not horrific, but definitely not friendly.

In Mexico, I was put in charge of managing my work papers on my own in the huge office in the center of Guadalajara. The papers weren't so cumbersome, but the lines were long and unfriendly. There were multiple lines. Sometimes I didn't know which one to stand in and, as there was no one to whom I could direct a question, I simply chose a line I thought could work, often to find out that it was the wrong line and that I had to start at the end of another queue and hope I made it to the front before the window closed. I visited that place and those lines many times, and I chalked it up to a colossal cross-cultural experience. The paperwork took months to sort out.

In the Romanian system, I was one of the lucky ones that got to circumvent lines and long waits. Due to the "contact" of a departmental colleague, my paperwork was rushed and when we visited the immigration police, we stepped in front of the line and right into the door of the man in charge. I had my papers in the mail before most were done standing in lines and filling out forms. The only hitch was the expiry date arranged by my disgruntled colleague who was upset with my departure to another school mid-year. Instead of papers for my entire stay, my card remained valid only for 5 months.

My experience four years ago in Tartu was not exactly painful, but it wasn't convenient either. I had to provide a lot of documentation for my qualifications to work as a non-EU citizen and the entire process was quite expensive and cumbersome for a one-year document. My colleague helped me at the immigration office, and, of course, we managed to wade through the process with success.

This new experience as the spouse of a resident could not have been more different. I waltzed into the open floor plan of the newly installed immigration police together with Ulrich, my passport, and marriage license. The woman working with us was extremely pleasant, and she processed my papers lickedy-split. Three weeks from the day of our first visit, I picked up my newly minted Estonian residency card! Simply Amazing.

This collection of personal immigration narratives, together with recent media impressions from National Public Radio and the New York Times paint a mottled picture of the acceptance of foreignness in this particular Baltic State. A possible interpretation as an outsider after listening/reading the news would be to assume that this place may not be very welcoming to those who are different. Although I realize there are differences between pursuing residency and citizenship, I might be led to assume that immigration encounters would be rather unfriendly. Not that I've had any poor personal experiences in Estonia that indicate that I am unwelcome here; quite the contrary, actually. The huge ad campaign for tourist, after all, is called "Welcome to Estonia." Tere Tulemast! Yes, welcomed I feel. One can agree, although the circumstances are different and perhaps it is a stretch to make comparisons between my personal anecdote, media attention about long-term residents and language, and tourism marketing, the picture is a bit inconsistent and confusing.

The flip side of the residency issue for me is related to immigration in my own country. After all, the U.S. is a self-proclaimed land of immigrants -- as inscribed on the Statue of Liberty: "Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free..." We celebrate our mixed heritages and glorify the struggles and sacrifices of those who came. "We Americans" are a motley crew wrestling with our identities, highlighting our pedigrees when they are preferred and downplaying other less-acceptable roots when inconvenient. This Interactive Map from NYT is endless entertainment, as you can look at immigration patterns from 1880 to the present, highlighting one group or another as you explore your own family's immigration and map it against the larger patterns. Indeed, we identify ourselves in this funny, mixed-up way. And yet we have Arizona, we have walls, we have those (from, gulp, my home state) fighting hard to defend what is "ours." In a profound way, I don't get it at all. As a de-facto American cultural ambassador of sorts (that's really what happens when you go abroad, like it or not), I can neither describe nor defend.

To complicate matters, I am also trying to apply for U.S. residency for my husband, God help him. The contrast could not be bigger. Today is the twelve-month anniversary of our first batch of application forms and fees. With an investment of a two-inch thick binder of forms and supporting materials and over $1,000 in fees, translations, and forms, we have not yet received any confirmation that we are indeed on the right track. The process leaves me with the same bewilderment I have when trying to figure out the IRS and my taxes. The process also leaves me embarrassed. My husband is a multilingual, educated person from a developed country; the process should not be difficult for him... and it is. We have to wonder with each entry and exit to the US if he will be pulled out for questioning. It's nerve-racking.

Our circumstances aside, should it matter where he is from, whether he speaks English, how educated he is whether or not he is currently employed? What do we fear that we so heavily screen and test? In a democracy that feigns welcome and inclusiveness, shouldn't we be able to marry whomever we want, regardless of citizenship?

Yep. I'm a legal alien, and a rather baffled one at that.

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Hausfrau

Signs of domesticity abound...

Gloves for cleaning and washing (yes, pink) as I have been a cleaning machine these last few days. I always thought wearing gloves was really a pretty sissy thing to do, but they do keep my hands from cracking from all the water and soap. Hasta la vista, dust, dirt, spiderwebs, and dustbunnies! Scrub, scrub, scrub.



Knitting underway. My fledgling skills managed a square of brown to be followed by a blue one and a few more before becoming slippers. I might just take to it yet...



Produce from an overzealous trip to the market today (how could I really resist with such a fun melon shopping tote, courtesy of an uber-talented sewing friend!). Ah! Sea buckthorn and raspberries, blueberries and lingonberries, chanterelle mushrooms and radishes, peppers and tomatoes. I have no idea what I really am going to do with all of it just now (especially the buckthorn), but I will clean and freeze some for later out-of-season use. Oatmeal berry muffins with some of the rest is on my agenda for this afternoon. A pie/tart to take to a dinner party on Sunday (if only I hadn't shattered the pie pan on my way home today!). Mushrooms to be eaten this evening (pan friend with some fresh bread!)... Yum, yum, yum!


Wednesday, August 25, 2010

From the Summer Capital of Estonia



As a first weekend adventure while back in Eestimaa, a visiting friend and I headed to the western coastal city of Pärnu for a couple of days. Known as the süvipealinn (summer capital) of Estonia, it is a quaint small town with a beautiful town center of colored wooden buildings, cafes, and shops that also has a long strip of quiet sandy beach. My previous visits, although they ocurred in summer, were not exactly summer-like or swim-inspiring, and I wanted a chance to revisit in better light. This time, we hit the town spot-on and it easily felt like a lazy place for a swim or stroll. Highlights included an Estonian ecological cafe that we visit twice for scrumptious rolls, fresh salads, soups, and cakes (a must-eat location if you decide to go! regrettably I do not have the name of the restaurant, only that it is on Pühavaimu across from the Piccadilly Wine Cafe) and an evening spent watching the sea, learning to knit, and sipping beer by the beach.



The next day, we were not so lucky with the weather as the skies were "Estonian gray" and dripping with rain almost all day. We headed out by ferry boat (2.5 hours) to Kihnu, an island about 40 kilometers off of the coast, that is famous for it's inhabitants traditional dress and proclivity for riding motorcycles with side cars! Although the rain prevented a full exploration, I definitely plan to return to Kihnu someday. The woods have the most lush carpet of undergrowth and feel very untouched -- a great place for potential camping. The local museum was a trove of the history of life on this small island and its unique costume, weavings, and patterns for socks and mittens. Unfortunately, we didn't make it to the lighthouse and some other sights before catching the afternoon ferry back because of the rain and lack of transport. Next time a bicycle and camping gear are definitely musts.



Sunday, August 22, 2010

Just kickin' down the cobblestones



For a time while I was in college, I perpetuated a awful joke that an aunt of mine with a particularly dry (bad?) sense of humor told me (and potentially authored). It went something like this:

One day I was driving down the road when I looked over to the side of the ditch, and I noticed a particularly sad, lonely, pathetic looking tree. It looked so sorry sitting there that I decided to pull over my car. I walked up to the tree with its drooping limbs and sad looking face, and I said to the tree, "What are you doing?" The tree replied, 'I'm leavin'!"
Although I am not as forlorn as this tree on the side of the road, I, too, am leavin' and have left." For my entire adult life, I have practiced a lifestyle of left and leaving, always starting something and already looking forward to the end and what might be next. This return to Estonia is no different and yet it is not the same.

On my journey to Tartu on AirBaltic, I picked up their in-flight magazine. Browsing through the articles, I found an interview with Robert Cottrell (British journalist living in Riga) entitled "The Professional Expatriate." I have a visceral reaction to the term expatriate that could be discussed in a post of its own at another time, but, at the same time, I do recognize that it might be a label that some unwittingly apply to me after leaving so often. Intrigued, and jet-lagged, I read on. One passage resonated with me in particular:

But like anything else, you get better at being foreign the longer you do it... the longer you spend traveling in different countries, the more you start to think that everything is special and everything has its own merit. It's own reason to be. You start trying to understand things in their own terms rather than in comparison with some other system, whether it's your own or anything else." (Rihards Kalnins, Baltic Outlook, p. 39).

The quotation spoke to me on this return to a new foreign place as well as to my identity as somewhat of a ... gulp ... ex-pat. The return to my Estonian self nearly four years since I first arrived in Tartu in 2006 and the affectionate moniker given me by an Estonian friend, EestiJenn, has been characterized with a familiar sense of belonging and knowing as well as discovery. Life in Tartu, for the moment, just is life, perhaps not as it would be anywhere else, and feels exactly as it should be. Although I don't have to wander around aimlessly looking for the local market or a good bank, there is plenty to discover and to see. However, it feels more normal and more regular, as if this were a place I can just be. And this is good. I may be leavin' again someday, but for the moment I will appreciate Estonia, Tartu, life, and myself on the basis of their own merits and reasons to be.

So... the same question asked to the tree begs to be answered, "What are you doin'?"

This question has been posed by American, Estonian, and international friends all alike. I might as well attempt to answer it. I am simply trying to make it all work -- marriage, life, work, me -- through a sort of drastic intervention via a tiny Baltic country, a few glasses of beer, and a casual re-examination of my personal state of affairs. I have chosen to land back in Estonia as my husband's sidekick (lots of kicking at his side). I am already getting rather used to the idea of being at his side -- it's great to revisit our favorite places in the place where we first got to know one another. I am, however, still kicking. After some busy semesters teaching and surviving, I am also taking a breather to refocus and take some creative looks at future directions and possibilities. I would like to attempt to redefine life to be less about me and what I do (hence, it is a bit ridiculous for me to even bother tackling the posed question!). I think I want to recapture a "SLOW LIVING" movement and enjoy the minutes that pass me by (see SlowPlanet.com for inspiration).

Some ideas for this slow time (Why do I have to tell you what I am doing if the point is that I am not defining myself by what I do? Some habits are impossible to suppress.):
  • Eesti Keel ja Kultur: I am going to take some university courses.
  • Visit the farmers' market and cook up tasty dishes to share.
  • Host friends and visitors.
  • Give.
  • Knit: I learned the basics last week and already have a square -- and it is rather slow going for my impatient and still clumsy fingers. Y'all may not have new hats and scarves this holiday season but I may just finish one pair of slippers!
  • Run: Inspired by a visit to Stockholm two years ago, I've signed up to run my first marathon in May 2011. 26.2. I've never attempted such an athletic feat, but I am positive that I can do it... and that it is perhaps something I should do (just once!) in my life.
  • Dance: We've already done our homework, and some ballroom is already in the works.
  • Read good and challenging things and some detective novels too.
  • Think.
  • Teach: Irresistible to mention (this identity is such a strong feature) but in my semester off, I will teach a couple of classes in the Open University system here (mostly for part-time students who work during the week and take classes on the weekend and/or evenings) about teaching and language.
  • Breathe.
  • Laugh.
  • Be EestiJenn.

(this will be me!)

In the end, I'm leavin' (aren't we all?) but I am also rooted in the here and now, so I will just be. After all, "Julge pealhakkamine on pool voitu" (a good beginning is half the battle). .



Thursday, July 29, 2010

Summer adventures and transitions 2010

Phew! Has it ever been a busy and adventurous summer. Here are some updates.



We started off in May (yes, this is officially summer in my book as the semester at GU was over and done with and we had a chance to breath some fresh air. As a bonus, it was actually Memorial Day Weekend, which for many of us signals the beginning of warmer weather and a season of barbecues and festivities). We headed up to the Big Apple to visit some friends from near and far (most exotic relocated friend? a toss up between a good friend from Denmark and studying in Connecticut via Estonia and another friend relocated from Malta via Estonia -- yes, all roads go through Eestimaa!). We were lucky enough to also see some recently relocated friends from DC. Besides socializing, I got the chance to visit some of my old haunts on the Upper West Side (I lived in New York 1998-1999), and Uli got to see the Statue of Liberty. We took in a Broadway Show, ate lots of good food, and did a whole lot of walking. Such a big, bustling city. It's intoxicating and exhausting at the same time. What I would give to be able to watch myself living there in my 20s after relocating from life in Wyoming and school in South Dakota. That definitely was the first big and diverse adventure that led to many more...


Just a handful of my wild, funny, and brilliant TMU scholars!

After teaching in a really fantastic summer program with student researchers from Tokyo Metropolitan University at GU and also working with MATESOL students up at American University, I began staging another transition out of DC and NoVA... Uli and I drove 2,000 miles this summer back to Wyoming to my lovely family and storage company (Uhler, inc.). Passing through Lansing, Chicago, Minneapolis, and Sioux Falls along the way to say hello to good friends and enjoy some good local foods and fun, we made the most of our cross-country trek and slow removal from my DC home. Two years of life is hard to leave behind, but it was made a bit easier by watching the miles pass under our wheels and the scenery slowly slip from forest to corn to plains to mountains...

Baby Cohen along with big brother and big sister

We arrived in Gillette just in time for a new addition to the family! We welcomed baby Cohen to the Uhler clan, and I got to be an aunt three times over (being an aunt is really the best thing ever!).

Jumping through the sprinkler on a hot day with my niece

We celebrated our first wedding anniversary and visited the Fishing Lake in Gillette to see our lock -- it's still there!

Our Love Lock at Fishing Bridge in Gillette survives

Our time underneath Wyoming skies has been busy with reunions, cookouts, and games of Pinochle. I've also become hopelessly addicted to the crime thriller novels by Stieg Larsson. However, we did head out for a week long trip to see the deer and the buffalo play.

From cody, yellowstone, grand tetons


From cody, yellowstone, grand tetons

We spent seven days camping in the old West town of Cody, Yellowstone National Park, Teton National Park, and a final stay in the Hot Springs of Thermopolis (for more great pictures, click on one of the images above or below). The following were some of the highlights:
  • Cowboy music show after dinner at the Irma in Cody
  • Camping at Pebble Creek in YNP
  • Bear sightings (yes, we saw probably around 8-10 black and grizzlies in total)
  • Bison traffic jams
  • Hot mud pools and geysers
  • Uli's birthday dinner lakeside at Grant Village
  • Moose sighting in Moose, Wyo (who would have guessed?!)
  • Wild water rafting and overnight scenic tour on the Snake River
  • Relaxing thermal waters and safari saloon in Thermop

From cody, yellowstone, grand tetons


From cody, yellowstone, grand tetons


From cody, yellowstone, grand tetons


From cody, yellowstone, grand tetons


From cody, yellowstone, grand tetons

In recovery from our trip, we've been helping my dad to roof his cabin on some land just west of Gillette in the Black Hills. Yesterday, we managed to put the finishing touches on and it looks great.

From 07-29-2010 Gillette Wyoming

It's been a great summer so far as we head into August and our next set of adjustments and transitions. Uli heads out to Eestimaa on Sunday and I will follow the next week. We're beginning the planning and packing and are really looking forward to the adventures that will be "next" in our story!

From 07-29-2010 Gillette Wyoming
Skip, the wonder dog!

What is that noise encircling our home?

Screeching around our home, the cicadas that come with the onset of the rainy season sound like an army of broken hard drives droning in fr...