Vastlapäeva
First of all, I wanted to tell you about some of the Estonian holidays and traditions I've been experiencing for the first time. On the 23rd of February, we celebrated Vastlapäeva or Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday and the beginning of the fast, brooding season before Easter, Lent. Unlike the carnival that ensues in other places, Estonians have some innocent and spritely (although I mean spritely in a very wintry sense here) traditions. Mainly, "nad lähevad kelgutama ja nad söövad hernesuppi ja vastlakukleid."
Mestasärv
I have joined a musical ensemble here in Tartu and seem to have stumbled upon an unusually fun and rowdy group of Estonians. Popsid is a brass band organized through the University of Tartu (albeit loosely). After searching around a bit for an instrument and a place to play it, I have joined the mestasärv (French horn) section of this wild group. Losing their characteristic reticence, this group of Estonians is rather unnerving in their atypical behavior. Rehearsals are two hours long, and we practice two times a week. The pattern of our meetings is never predictable: people wander in and out of the rehearsal room; the trombone and euphonium player pass mulled wine, beer, or vodka back and forth in the last two rows (lucky me, I sit in the same row); the percussionist comes over an hour late, if at all; the director plays his horn along with the band while walking back and forth or sitting down; and the woman conductor often stands up front wildly singing, shouting, and conducting with striking red hair. All of the directives are shouted into a microphone in order to overtake the cacophony of players talking, laughing, and playing. The surprising part is that amidst the disorder is some serious musical talent. Although there are varied ability levels within the group, there are a number of really excellent players and this is exciting and motivating for me, even with my chops nearly two years out of shape. Being a bit of a band geek and undeniably an extrovert, I find all of the commotion, chaos, and music refreshing. Something missing from the classrooms and workplaces I often frequent here in Tartu is the noise and exuberant life of people having fun. No matter that I hardly understand a word of the shouting around me. It is enjoyable to sink into the middle of all of this energy and talent.
Palju õnne sunnipäevaks
The middle of February, I was invited to the birthday party of one of the participants in my faculty courses, Jana. A double-celebration of her and her husband's birthday, the event took place in a local Italian restaurant. One of my first truly Estonian events, I enjoyed being part of the festivities and yummy food. It was interesting to take part in something Estonian and to be surrounded by so many interesting local people. In addition to celebrating, I was able to listen to a bit of Estonian -- the extent to which I realized that my language pursuits need a bit more effort! :)
Another birthday party we attended in February was just outside of Otepää, the winter capital of Estonia. The celebration was unique in its rustic countryside location. The party took place outside of an old home and in a smithy (where blacksmith work is done). Our friend's dad, who was celebrating his birthday, still practices the art and has traditional as well as modern tools. The work is really beautiful (my favorites were a long handled pancake pan for the fire and some beautifully made candle hangers) and the shop was a perfectly cozy place for a wintry celebration. You can see photos of Mart Salumaa's smithy here. In addition to the nice atmosphere inside, it was also gorgeous outside -- wintry and white. Located in front of the smithy was a small hill ending on a frozen pond. Children and adults alike spent the afternoon running up the hill to sled down and across the ice. Watching everyone smiling and laughing with rosy cheeks and great cheer transcended any language or cultural barriers. I had a great time!
Eesti Vabariigi Aastapäev
The Estonian independence day is celebrated on February 24 and this year Estonians celebrated their 89th year anniversary. Founded in 1918, Estonia as a nation has had a fragile, complicated and often interrupted independence. Unlike the Americans on the 4th of July, Estonians do not really do much to commemorate. However, the president has a reception that is the social event of the year for society's elite. Everyone watches on television to see the who's-who and fancy ball dresses, much like the Oscars or Grammies. It is a chance to observe Estonian's finest. This year, for the first time, the presidential ball and hand-shaking took place in Tartu, although, admittedly, I did little but notice the corded off streets and extra security around the theatre in the evening!
More exciting perhaps is that the holiday is also a usually a day off of work and school. this year, the 24th fell on a Saturday, so the offices of the university shut down mid-day on Friday. The office in which I am situated, Academic Affairs, took a snow day. Twenty or so administrative staff and I headed out by bus in the morning to southern Estonia for a day of snow tubing, skiing, skating, and sauna. We arrived in Rõuge on a perfect day -- sunny and white! We started with snow tubing (basically inner-tubes covered with a thick canvass that makes them easier to sit on top of) down a steep hill with a bowl at the bottom (WOO-HOO!!! YEE-HAW!!!). Then we enjoyed some soup in a long, wooden hall heated by fireplace before separating into skiing, sledding, and skating groups. I took skis to try my luck at cross-country skiing, but I did not make it very far as the equipment did not fit very well. Instead, I took some skates and made friends with a colleague's 8-year-old daughter while skating in circles around a small pond. Speaking in both English and Estonian (her English betters my Estonian a hundred-fold!), we became "best friends" and for the rest of the trip I had a partner for sledding and sitting on the bus! The whole day was magical and very enjoyable. I got to know my colleagues better and really enjoyed the outside opportunity to get into the snow and play.
Eesti keel
Some of you have inquired about my language acquisition here in Tartu. I continue to take classes and to try and learn a bit to get around. I can say a few more things and am happy to begin to understand what is in my surroundings. However, I cannot say that I am very conversational. I have little practice outside of my language class and have found it hard to get motivated to learn much, not knowing whether or not I will be here beyond this academic year. I have a new language teacher who teaches almost entirely in Estonian, but my course is very mixed ability and sometimes I feel overly challenged and at others a bit bored. It's a delicate balance, but I am continuing. I can now give a physical description of myself or others and last week we spent some time talking about our professions! "Ma olen keskmist kasvu ja täidlane. mul on pruunid, lokkis juuksed. Mul on sinised silmad. Ma töötan õpetajana ja minu töö on huvitav, lõbus, ja eriline!" :)
All things being Estonian, things are progressing along here in Tartu on quite a good note, I must say. And, before this post gets entirely out of hand, I think it is time to say...
(that's all!)
3 comments:
Hey Jenn, lots going on it seems. That's a good excuse not to write and gives you plenty to write about when you do. For someone who doesn't speak much Estonian, you're doing pretty good with the umlauds and spelling of those phrases! Cheers, Jeff
Jenn, I'd refuse to learn Estonian just because their spelling is so atrocious. ;)
CE
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