Saturday, October 28, 2006

Morning Sunshine

The duration of sunshine hours for the month of November: 12

The duration of sunshine hours for the month of December: 5

The duration of sunshine hours for the month of January: 17

This morning was SUNNY. Enough said. Here's a backyard view from my apartment windows.

From My backyard


From My backyard


From My backyard


From My backyard


From My backyard


From My backyard

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

Your questions. Some answers.

  • Is Estonia the world's smallest country?
  • Does the sun ever shine in Estonia?
  • Does Estonia have a king?
  • Do ferns blossom in Estonia?
  • Who is a mulk?
  • Do Estonians ever smile?
  • What do Estonians do on the weekend?

A comprehensive guide to these and other questions you may have can be found at A Dozen Questions about Estonia.

Saturday, October 21, 2006

On being American . . . and all that jazz

Kermit said it wasn't easy being green. I would have to say the same about being from a country with so much influence in the world stage and a powerful as well as pervasive media. Everyone feels as if they know a lot about the United States and most people have pre-formed impressions about U.S. culture (or lack of it, as some might try to claim), people, and politics. Thanks to powerful and wealthy entertainment and media industries, all that is American is all over the globe, for better or worse. The disadvantage, I suppose, is that nearly everyone on the face of the planet has an opinion about where I am from and a loaded perspective or bias about it before they ever visit the States or meet an American. It means that when I greet someone for the first time, especially outside of my own country, he or she already has associations with and expectations of me. The preconceived ideas of Americans are stereotypes mostly, and, admittedly, those impressions are hard to avoid forming when they are reinforced by movies, radio, TV, print media, and sometimes real-life encounters.

This week was a week full of reminders about my roots and nationality. I was chastised by a participant in one of my courses who was put off by my presentation of the American resume (the EU has a particular format they use with rules and an easy form to fill in; apparently, in the perspective of some, the more creative endeavor of crafting a resume to market yourself in the American environment is completely irrelevant). In another conversation at work, I was told of the tendency of Americans to be loud and proud of it. Yesterday, a colleague working next to me was reviewing a student thesis all about the evil nature of Americans and their plot to destroy the globe; the entire document exhibiting an alarming amount of hatred towards my nation. Someone else, in casual conversation and without knowing me well, felt it was acceptable to remark to me this week about Americans bad accents in language learning and inability to learn other languages at all (I guess they never met any of my multi-lingual and well-traveled friends!). Never mind the commonplace fat, unhealthy American references that come up on a frequent basis. Every time I turn on the television, I am assaulted by images of either pop culture being exported from my country or images of politicians and bombs. North Korea. Iraq. Elections. Political scandals. Religious ones. School shootings. It's awfully depressing. It's enough to make me cry. What is this place? Why? Is this really my home nation? Are these my people?

Just when I am about to either abandon my nationhood entirely or become unpleasantly defensive out it, I encounter real live examples of who Americans are. The stereotypes then begin to crumble a bit...

Hospitable and Generous... One woman in the community here continually throws the doors of her home wide open for meetings, dinners, and visitors. She volunteers her busy life and family home as a safe place to gather. I've been to her house many times already, and I'm continually impressed with her welcoming spirit and willingness to host another event and greet strangers so warmly.

Inquisitive and giving... An exchange student from the Midwest here in Estonia for a semester impresses me with her curiosity about different peoples and places. She not only expresses an interest in knowing what the community is like, she has gone out of her way and comfort zone by getting involved in Tartu by getting to know a local family and volunteering at a local school.

Quirky individuals... The American take on travel sometimes cracks me up. I have an Argentinian friend who likes to transform this expression into an adjective, and I kind of like it so I think I will also use it here. Americans are "crackers" (meaning that they crack me up; no reference other meanings of cracker). An American woman that I barely know and just met told a story about her family's move to Germany a few years ago. They shipped their huge, Ford super cab pickup overseas to use while they were there. Of course, the immense vehicle looked absurd on tiny European streets and was impossible to park. I love the image...

Jazzy, classy, yet unpretentious... I went to a jazz concert last night and saw Freddy Cole's Jazz Quartet (he's Nat King Cole's younger brother!). His soothing voice and way of making commonplace into brilliant musical material as well as his easy smile and open character made me smile throughout the entire event. Something I can't quite put my finger on that made the disposition of Freddy Cole and the entire event very, very American.

Not to get too warm and fuzzy about the U.S. There is good and there is bad. There is enough diversity to make my head spin, and I am probably unaware of most of that diversity that is out there. People are people. However, in a country of 300 million and counting, I wonder if all Americans are what everyone wants to label as "All-American." More than ever, no matter how inconvenient it may be, I think my country defies stereotype. Can you really capture who I am in a song, a hateful thesis, a movie, a news report, a presidential address, a jazz concert, or a blog entry?

I am who I am, and I guess I am American... and all that jazz.


** I know that the use of "America" or "American" offends some who consider them references to the entire continent rather than to a specific nation. I use the terms "America" and "American" to refer to the United States of America and people who live there, not because I seek to offend but merely because I find it too cumbersome to continually use United States and think those terms are commonly used to mean the United States or its inhabitants. I hope that you do not find the usage offensive. Perhaps the mere fact that I feel it necessary to include this caveat speaks to the edgy, defensive nature of people from the U.S. trying to navigate dialogues with those around the globe. Ridiculous, to a point, isn't it?

Monday, October 16, 2006

In Coherent Thought

I have decided that there is reason to be wary of someone who begins a sequence of ideas with "I've been thinking about..." Somehow, it suggests too much premeditation and over-thunkenness and probably forebodes that something totally incoherent is to follow.

That said, I've been thinking . . .

My inner monologue has gotten pretty active these last few weeks. I suspect anyone who spends time alone has a fair amount of talk going on in his or her head. If you magnify this time by traveling or moving around a lot, I think you develop not just an inner monologue but rather an entire dialogue. I have entire conversations with myself on some days (some of them quite good!). Although I am somewhat aware that I often talk to myself while at home or at work, I never thought that I would be one of those crazy people on the streets talking to an imaginary person or into a pretend cellular phone. I thought I had this habit in check. However, I guess it's hard to keep this habit in check when I am overwhelmed by something else. I caught myself in steady conversation while shopping this weekend.

Ah! Consumerism. I officially am done with shopping for the moment. It's gotten cold here in the last week. My summer/fall things simply aren't going to cut it. There were sales. I went shopping. I visited every single shop in the central area of town. Twice. Sweaters. Jackets. Coats. Boots. There are some serious winter items for sale here, and I suspect they might just be the early fall items. Yikes. Indecision. Paralyzed by choice. I talked to myself. Saleswoman convinced me the coat I had initially chosen would not be warm enough. I gave up on shopping. Went back the next day. Calculated my budget. Talked to myself a lot. Went back the next day. Decided the woman didn't know what she was talking about. (Her level of competency in English was not convincing). Tried the coat on. More dialogue with myself. Bought the coat. Alas! I am prepared to be warmly-clad this winter as I wander the streets whispering to myself in completely coherent thought.

That said, I should probably begin having some dialogues with myself in Estonian. I have a big test tomorrow (5 chapters!) and should be a bit stressed about the amount of competency I am expected to demonstrate. I just didn't feel up to memorizing bajillions of new vocabulary items that I have never spoken aloud in class, let alone in inner dialogues or with a real, live Estonian! We'll see how it all goes when I get there tomorrow.

One last ramble before I go. To ease your minds, I have been meeting plenty of interesting and fun people here in Estonia and have even perhaps made a friend or two. I was inspired by a video I saw this morning, and I thought maybe I could also advertise free hugs as an icebreaker? Or would that be too strange? :)

The Free Hug Campaign

Friday, October 13, 2006

Identity

My suspicions are confirmed: I'm an almost normal American who was meant to be a Spanish German Shepard. (I apologize for the silliness . . . I just couldn't stop at one or two!)

Your Inner European is Spanish!

Energetic and lively.
You bring the party with you!



You Are 56% American

Most times you are proud to be an American.
Though sometimes the good ole US of A makes you cringe
Still, you know there's no place better suited to be your home.
You love your freedom and no one's going to take it away from you!




You Are 45% Normal

While some of your behavior is quite normal...
Other things you do are downright strange
You've got a little of your freak going on
But you mostly keep your weirdness to yourself


You Are a German Shepherd Puppy

Intelligent, quick witted, and a bit aggressive.
You've got the jaw power to take a bite out of anyone you choose.

Thursday, October 12, 2006

It's Kama to me!

Today, as I headed to the library to pick up a book I ordered on interlibrary loan, I had the pleasant surprise of running into one of the faculty members in one of my courses. She was the organizer of a semiotics conference, and she and the participants were heading to lunch. They had extra places at the dinner, so she invited me along as a "hungry person" who needed to eat.

The menu was great and much better than the tuna sandwich I was heading home to prepare: cream of broccoli soup, pork chops potatoes with creamy dill gravy (chunks of pickles in this white sauce!), sauerkraut, and a fantastic Estonian desert of ingredients that don't fully exist in the same way in my world of English: "Kohupiim jakama moosiga." It was lovely enough to warrant a fuller description and a future repeat appearance in my Estonian diet.

Kohupiim (curd) Kama (grain mixture) moosiga (with jam).

Everyone warned me that I wouldn't like it. It was supposed to be strange. Grain sprinkled in sour cream/curd/cottage cheese/cream cheese. . . "Foreigners just don't like it," I was told. I was prepared to try it out but not anticipating anything scrumptious. It was really fantastic and defies a translation or simple explanation.

A website put out by the Ministry of Agriculture explains: Kama is a quite traditional, however initially only a seasonal dish and it is one of the undisputed classics of Estonian cuisine. The kama flour is a mixture of rough grain flour and peas. The composition of kama is not very clear. There is an Estonian saying about a situation when something does not matter: "It's kama to me!"

In the summer, many Estonians mix kama with keefir (sour milk) for a refreshing drink as pictured here, above.

For more about Estonian food and how Estonians eat it, visit Estonian Food!

Sunday, October 08, 2006

Do you want to know the secret?

Last year, when first arrived in Romania, I participated in city tour in Cluj given by a history professor from the University of Babes Bolyai. Cluj is a Romanian city in Transylvania and a nexus of several faiths, peoples, and histories. This particular tour, given in the pouring rain, was rather comprehensive. Throughout the three-hour excursion, our guide would stop at a particular point of interest, name it, and then ask, "Do you want to know the secret?" I think he could detect our exhaustion but knew he could rope us back into the tour with the question because, inevitably, we did want to know. After all, who doesn't want to be in on a secret? The very suggestion is enticing, right? That's what I thought you'd say...

Tartu in October
Oct 6, 2006 - 27 Photos


Today, I will tell you some small secrets about Tartu on this quiet, rainy Sunday afternoon. It has been pouring rain for the last couple of days, so when a few rays of sunshine peeked their way in my window this afternoon, I took to the streets for a good walk in the autumn leaves, camera in hand.


Secret #1: Autumn is undeniably here in all of its gorgeous splendor! The colorful leaves and crisp feel of the air are things of true beauty and wonder.


Secret #2: Culture with a capital "C" offers Estonian insights. In my free time, I have been going to a lot of cultural events in town -- Opera (Mozart, Idemeneo), a jazz/improvisational quartet, and, this weekend, the ballet (A Midsummer Night's Dream). All of these events have been well-attended and extremely accessible in terms of cost. A third row ticket to the opera cost a mere $5 and the ballet less than $4.

This past Saturday, I set out expecting Mendelssohn and a dreamy, fairy-like production. I was only partially right. There were fairies. There was some Mendelssohn. There was also a director ranting in English (and dancing) mid-production about choosing opening music. There was a somewhat inexplicable overweight man wearing a dress and chasing the fairy queen onto the stage (he later fell asleep on the side of the forest with a can of Estonian beer, Saku, in hand). There was a small inset concert on a musical saw. There was a troop of older women wearing fairy wings, sweeping, and singing a song in Estonian, and even I could understand the lyrics -- Head Ööd (Good Night)! Fascinating. I haven't revisited the original Shakespeare for a while, but I don't recognise these elements. I'll just let the events speak for themselves. It was entertaining.


Secret #3: I set out on a rainy walk this afternoon and stumbled across one of Tartu's secret treasures: the University of Tartu Botanical Gardens -- colorful trees, moss-covered stairs and pathways, still-blooming flowers, and strange pieces of artwork placed as though coming up through the carpeted garden floor.



Secret #4: Part of the Struve Geodetic Arc is here in Tartu. I neither fully understand it's purpose nor importance, but I stumbled upon it on my walk this afternoon. For those of you that want to know more of the secret, The Struve Geodetic Arc is a chain of survey triangulations constructed by Struve, the German-Russian scientist, to figure out the dimensions of the earth. The arc covers ten countries and over 2,820 km, from Norway to the Black Sea.

Sunday, October 01, 2006

University of Tartu on video

Check it out! http://www.ut.ee/105840

Pickles on pizza, mushrooms in hair, and other Estonian insights

Some somewhat random observations gathered over the last week or so:

Pickles on pizza: I ordered a vegetarian pizza the other day for lunch. Amongst the cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms, olives, corn, and onion were heaping amounts of pickles. Now, I have eaten a lot of weird things on pizza before (and corn does not even rate among them!), but this was my first experience with a pickle pizza. Being a big fan of almost all pickled, I gave it a try and dug in . . . and it was pretty good! I may just become a regular consumer of pickle pizza.

Mushrooms in hair: Estonian romance must be an interesting phenomenon. In my Estonian class, we listened to a song that has been popular over several generations called Mis värvi on armastus? or What color is love? The song has been rerecorded more than once as a testament to its continued relevance to the Estonian concept of romance. Lauding the features of his beautiful love, the narrator of the song praises "your hair as brown as a mushroom". I know that Estonians have an affinity for mushrooms, but I had no idea that it was an attractive hair color. Actually, it seems kind of strange considering that many of these Nordic men and women have beautiful white-blond hair. Perhaps mushroom-colored hair is a bit exotic? ;)

The next Shakira?: I went to shake my hips at an Estonian belly dancing class this week. Most Estnonians, I am told, are not well-known for their abilities to dance and generally stick with somewhat restricted body movements on the dance floor. I figured that this environment might be a safe one to try out my own belly dancing aptitude. At the door, I was offered a bangled scarf to tie around my waist and I struggled to keep up with the instructor, who, by the way, didn't exhibit any of the afore-mentioned inhibitions about moving. I think I may just have to go back . . . after all, I could be the next Shakira.

Dustbunnies under my bed: I have now been in my Tartu apartment for a month. As I celebrated the anniversary and undertook a major clean yesterday, I uncovered a number of dustbunnies under my bed and in the corners. I have the following thoughts: How is it possible to have accumulated so many? Where do dustbunnies come from? Why do we call them dustbunnies? They are not cute, so perhaps it is because they multiply rapidly?

Sauna: Estonians take saunas often and consider them a necessary ritual nearly year round. Almost all apartment buildings or homes have some sort of sauna in them; my apartment is no different and has a sauna attached to the upstairs bathroom. I fired mine up (no worries -- it's electric!) yesterday night. I may still have to practice getting the right combination of heat and water, but the experience was incredibly relaxing. I may have to take on this Estonian habit as my own.

Big feet: I really like shoes. Really like shoes. One of the major downsides of living and traveling abroad for me has been difficulties in finding shoes my size (not enormous by American standards, but still a size 10 or European 41). Another reason why I love Estonia: women have big feet! I can find my shoe size nearly everywhere -- this bodes well for an upcoming winter boot purchase.

Sandals in the rain: Experiences in Central and Eastern Europe taught me that many people are strongly set against wearing sandals when it is cold outside or raining, not to mention have a deep disapproval of leaving the house with wet hair or sitting on cold cement surfaces. I have been chided and reprimanded for doing all of the above. Said in a caring or disgusted manner, my friends, colleagues, and students have had the best intentions in telling me such things; one can get sick (or, in a worst-case scenario, become infertile!) from such careless actions. My upbringing and education has led me to believe that such advice is formed upon superstitious wives' tales. I expected to encounter some of these same attitudes here in Estonia. However, I have been pleasantly surprised. It's almost October, getting pretty chilly, and, even in the rain, Estonians are still sporting sandals and bare feet. Perhaps they are only cooling off from the sauna?

What is that noise encircling our home?

Screeching around our home, the cicadas that come with the onset of the rainy season sound like an army of broken hard drives droning in fr...